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Is it OK to use lining paper on kitchen walls

Posted by Adrian
September 26th, 2014

lining paper

Is it OK to use lining paper on kitchen walls

Lining paper is used to give a good base to either emulsion or wallpaper over. As long as the preparation is done well and the lining paper is stuck well to the walls, then lining paper is OK to use on kitchen walls.

Safety first

As with all wallpapers, lining paper shouldn’t be hung near naked flames or any ignition source, this is especially true in kitchens.

image of calculator with 37.6 in the display

How much lining paper do I need for my kitchen

It is easy to measure for lining paper, all you require is a tape measure, pencil or pen and a note pad.
Measure the height and perimeter or the walls to be lined and make a note of these measurements. Then go to our wallpaper calculator and enter these measurements, the calculator will then tell you how many rolls of lining paper you need to buy.

What grade of lining paper should I use

Lining paper comes in different thicknesses, known as grades or gauge. Typically in most cases 1200 or 1400 gauge lining paper will be sufficient. However if your walls are in a really bad condition you could use a thicker lining paper such as a 2000 gauge lining paper. You can also buy specialist papers such as thermal liners, soundproofing liners and damp proof liners, but typically standard lining paper will suffice.

Use a good quality paste and follow the manufactures instructions for mixing paste.

lining paper gauge

Do you need lining paper

Lining paper is not a miracle cure, and it isn’t an easy option that means you do not have to do any preparation, you do. Lining paper isn’t a substitute for good preparation, taking time to fill and sand walls could be a better option than hanging lining paper.

Lining paper is ideal to give good sound base for wallpaper and emulsion but shouldn’t be thought of as a quick fix to smooth walls.

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Recent listed building exterior job summer 2014

Posted by Adrian
September 15th, 2014

Grade II listed building

Recent listed building exterior job summer 2014

As the summer draws to a close I thought I would post about a recent job I have completed. The job was a 17th century Grade II listed building property in my local area. I viewed the property in mid April 2014 with the intent to do the job late summer.

The property required some repair work to woodwork but was also in need of two new windows, a box sash window on the front elevation and a small window to the side elevation. These windows were made by a local joinery company and fitted by a local builder.

The building is timber framed that originally had weatherboard on the exterior but was rendered some year ago. The roof has a catslide style, this means one side is longer than the other.

Decorating the exterior

The rendered walls had algae growing on them so the first job was to treat this with a algae and anti fungicide wash, this was applied, left for a while, and then thoroughly washed and scrubbed off.

Once the walls were dry I could apply the masonry paint, two coats were applied to the walls of a Dulux smooth masonry paint in Magnolia. Once this was done it was time to do the windows.

There were nine windows in all to paint, the frames were painted in Sadolin Superdec Walnut, and the windows themselves in Sadolin Superdec Magnolia, the front door was also painted in the same Walnut and magnolia.

The guttering and downpipes were painted in a black gloss, the plinth was painted in a black bitumen to finish off the bottom of the property.

The customers were very happy and as you can see by the pictures below, there is a big difference between the before and after shots.

The before and after pictures

Grade II listed building side elevation

Grade II listed building frontelevation

Grade II listed building render


Grade II listed building side elevation

Grade II listed building side elevation

Grade II listed building side elevation


Grade II listed building side elevation

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Parts of a staircase

Posted by Adrian
September 1st, 2014

bull nose step

Parts of a staircase

Continuing on from my other “parts of a..” posts such as parts of a door frame and parts of a window, this time we are looking at parts of a staircase. Most of you probably use one staircase or more in a typical day but have you ever wondered what the individual parts are called, well this blog post will hopefully explain them for you.

Staircases can be made from all sorts of materials, most commonly is wood, and depending on how elaborate you want the stairs can be made from expensive hardwoods and be either varnished of waxed to show the beauty of the wood off.

The main parts of a staircase are as follows:

Handrail

The handrail is the part of the staircase that you hold onto as you go up and down the stairs. The handrail is to give stability and support as you use the stairs. The handrail can go upto the newel post or sit on top if the newel post to form a continuous handrail, this may have a scrolling handrail at the end, know as a Monkey tail.

Spindle

Spindles can either be plain or decorative, they infill between the baserail and the handrail, they have to be a set distance apart and no more than 99mm to avoid a childs head passing through between spindles. This gap is in line with UK building regulations. Spindles are also known as Baluster and are part of the balustrade which consists of handrail, baserail, spindles and newel posts.

Baserail

The baserail is a rail allowing the spindles to be fixed into with spacers fitting into the rail to space to spindles correctly. The baserail sits on top of the stringer.

Toprail

The top rail is the same as a baserail but sits under the handrail.

Tread

The stair tread, is as the name suggests the part you tread on as you ascend and descend the staircase. 220mm is the minimum tread depth for UK domestic staircases.

Riser

The riser is the vertical section that makes up the front of the step, the minimum depth for the UK domestic staircase is 220mm. You can have open risers, this is where you have a small or no riser and gives and open and airy feel. The maximum gap allowed for this gap is 100mm.

Step

The step is the tread and riser together making the ‘step’.

String

The string are a structural part of the staircase that hold the tread and the riser (step). Typically there is a string on either side of the staircase, but not in every case. Strings or stringers can be ‘closed’ or ‘cut’.
Closed stringers are the cheapest option and plainest in there look, the stringers encloses the tread and riser.
Cut stringers are cut to follow the line of the tread and riser, allowing the tread and riser to be seen.

The wall string is the string that sits flush against a wall.

Slope, pitch, rake

The slope, pitch or rake is the angle of the stairs, 42° is the UK rake angle.

Landing

Landings are the area at the top of bottom of the stairs, although you can get half and quarter landings that allow the staircase to change direction and take up less space than a traditional straight staircase.

Newel

The newel is the large posts at the top and bottom of the stairs. The newel posts has the string and the handrail jointed into it. The newel can be plain or decorative, to match the spindles for example.

Bullnose step

This is typically the bottom step that has a rounded off end, a bullnose. The bullnose step start beyond the bottom newel post and wraps around the newel. Sometimes if the handrail sits on top of the newel and has a monkey tail on the end, the spindles sit on the step. You can also get a shaped step known as a curtail step.

Nosing

The nosig is the rounded front edge of the tread that protrudes beyond the face of the riser.

Staircase

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