How to paint an up and over Steel Canopy garage door

When over painting an up and over garage door you need to prepare the surface as you would any other surface.

Wash off any dirt and grit, then abrade the surface with sandpaper, I tend to use 80-grit for this. Key the surface all over including the bottom and sides.

Now you can dust off the door and undercoat with the appropriate colour undercoat.
I normally start by painting the two edges, but not the bottom of the door. Be careful when painting the edges of the door not to get any on the frame if the door is a different colour, lift the door up about half way, you can now paint the edges.
Next, if your door has horizontal sections start at the top working down, if the door has vertical sections start from one side working across, if the door has panels do these first and then paint the rest of the door.

When I paint either a door with horizontal or vertical sections I do the same thing, I paint the groove first, then the panel, then paint the next groove and then the panel and so on, then with the last panel I paint the bottom of the door.

When the undercoat is dry do the same procedure as before but with your chosen topcoat.

When you topcoat, work fast, that way the paint flows nicely and you can put a good amount on. As you paint the door lift it up as you go, it’s far easier; you don’t have to bend down and the paint wont run!

Finally, when you’re done lift the door all the way up, this serves two purposes, firstly the paint won’t run and will flow well, and secondly it stops insects, dust and dirt blowing over the wet paint on the door as most of it is in the garage.
Be aware of rain though, if the door is left up and it rains the rain will lay on the door and ruin your paint.

Why not to paint lead flashing

I’ve been working on exterior houses over the past few weeks and I thought I would share this tip with you.

Whilst painting the exterior of a house, many jobs include the painting of the lead flashing, because the paint on the lead has started to peel. Many houses have lead flashing either under the windows or maybe along the roof of a conservatory.

One of the reasons why the paint peels off of lead is because the lead oxidises, this means the lead has a chemical reaction with the oxygen in the air, this lifts the paint and leaves a white powder on the surface of the lead. Another reason for paint peeling is the lead expands and contracts with the heat, this can crack the paint allowing moisture or water in and lifting the paint.

If your lead flashing has been painted it can be a long job cleaning it all off which is why most people re-paint the lead.

If you do repaint the lead, remove all the loose flaky paint and any white powder substance, which is the oxidisation. Next use a flexible undercoat and topcoat, such as Dulux Weathershield undercoat and gloss, I have found this lasts OK, although not forever.

What you should do with lead flashing.

If you have new or unpainted lead please don’t start to paint it! The best solution is not to paint it and to use an oil to treat the lead; this will keep it supple and stop it from cracking.

The best oil’s to use are one of the following, Patination Oil, WD40 or 3in1 oil, all are widely available from hardware shops or builders merchants.

Simply take a cloth, tip some oil onto the cloth and then work it into the lead, you will notice the lead becomes darker as the lead absorbs some of the oil. Continue doing this until you’re happy with the result. Your lead will now look good, be able to breath and be supple to stop it from drying out and cracking.

You will need to re-apply the oil when the lead is starting to look a light grey or just a little bit weathered. If you stick with this method your lead will last for years and you don’t have to worry about paint peeling off it ever!

How to paint a ceiling

To start gather all the equipment needed

You will need:

• Dustsheets – To cover floor and furniture
• A brush – 1½ or 2 inch
• A roller cage – for the roller sleeve to go onto
• A roller sleeve – for smooth and lightly textured artexed ceilings use a fine or medium pile roller, ideally a 9-inch sleeve, for heavily artexed ceilings a long pile roller sleeve may be required
• A roller tray – big enough for a 9-inch roller
• A paint kettle – to tip some paint into for cutting in
• Paint – The paint for the ceiling, normally emulsion (use our paint calculator to determine how much paint you need)
• A step ladder

First move any furniture out of the room and cover any remaining furniture or alternatively cover the floor and furniture with dustsheets. Make sure you can reach the entire ceiling without over reaching, as this is unsafe. Next open your tin of paint and stir well, tip a small amount into the paint kettle, then fill the paint tray.

Now cut in (i.e. paint around the edge) using the brush and kettle, cut in around the ceiling including any light fittings. If you have coving, paint this with the brush also.

Once you have cut in, take your roller and get some paint onto it, roll it on the tray to work the paint into the roller sleeve and get it all around the sleeve.

Now take the roller and roll it over the ceiling, I find it best to work away from a natural light source such as a window

Work in small area’s in front, behind and either side of you, then top the roller up and move to the next area.

When you second coat the ceiling it maybe an idea to work at adjacent angle to avoid any missed area’s, this will also ensure you don’t end up with lines and also will give a nice even coat across the ceiling.

When you second coat the ceiling, cut in as before but this time don’t brush the coving, use a fairly dry roller to go over the coving, this will give a nicer finish. In my opinion anyway!