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Lining paper – What thickness should I use?

Posted by Adrian
December 3rd, 2009

Lining paper grades 800 -2000

Lining paper thickness

If you are planning on decorating a room and the walls aren’t that good your best option would be to line the walls with lining paper first.

So what thickness should you use?

Lining paper comes in different thickness known as ‘grades’.
The grades range from 800 to 2000 and vary quite a lot in thickness between the lowest to the highest grade.

Some ‘DIY’ stores only stock the lower grades of lining paper, maybe up to 1200 if you’re lucky, but normally only up to 1000 grade. You can buy the thicker grade papers form ‘trade’ outlets, local suppliers or online.

If you are using some of the higher grade lining paper make sure you allow the lengths of paper enough time to soak and become pliable. The time will increase for each grade of paper thickness.

For most jobs I use 1400 grade, it is thick enough for most jobs and is easy enough to work with. I use it for both walls and ceilings.
If you decide to go for the heavier grade papers (1700 and 2000) then you may find it difficult to handle and work with, this will obviously depend on your experience and room shape and size.

Remember, lining paper isn’t a magic paper that will make your walls imperfection free, it will give you a smoother, sounder base to work from. Lining paper was designed as a base to wallpaper onto, however you can emulsion over lining paper without any problems.
You should always prepair the walls, by this I mean you still need to fill the holes with filler, rub down the walls etc.

Allow at least 12 hours for drying if you are going to emulsion the walls and 24 hours if you are going to hang wallpaper over the lining paper, if you don’t the lining paper may come off the wall.
If the room is cold or damp you may have to allow longer for drying.

If your walls are bare plaster you will need to ‘size’ the walls first. This means either buying a packet of size or alternatively a diluted mix of wallpaper paste applied to the wall.

This will stop the lining paper drying out to quickly and give a stronger adhesion to the newly plastered wall.

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Posted in Decorating Tips | 253 Comments »




253 Responses to “Lining paper – What thickness should I use?”

  1. Annie Says:

    We have a new plastered area of wall in our kitchen where we had a door bricked up, we are planning to use lining paper before painting to match with the rest of the room. The area we’ll be papering has some new plaster and some old plaster. Can you suggest the best way to prep the wall before hanging the lining paper? I’m confused about mist coats vs. sizing and how long we need to leave things to dry between steps.

    Date posted : March 22nd, 2015 at 5:30 pm
  2. Adrian Says:

    @Annie

    First things first is to ensure all surfaces are level. If the doorway is plastered and not the whole wall there maybe an edge around it depending on how good plastering is. If this is the case use filler to feather out and edges. The rub down smooth and level.

    As you are lining the wall you can size it using wallpaper paste. Allow to dry. (A few hours)

    Then hang lining paper, allow to dry 12-24 hours before painting.

    If you were going to paint wall rather than line, then same prep and then a mist coat to seal new plaster before painting

    Date posted : March 22nd, 2015 at 6:44 pm
  3. cott Says:

    1700 mav lining paper, left 7 min to a good 10 mins,before hanging, all brushed flat, using a walwiz, pasted with a roller and a mix of 4.5 l of water to a pack of solvite, sized wall it was like a matt emulsion, and i did some filling prior, loads of horizonal bubbles on one wall, 3 days later, the rest ok, and ive hung loads perfect before, ? cheers also is the less chance of bubbles with 1400 grade cheers

    Date posted : April 4th, 2015 at 1:16 pm
  4. Adrian Says:

    @Cott

    If the bubbles are in a line I can only guess there was something underneath the paper that caused it to bubble, maybe some oil based paint that stopped the adhesive soaking in and the paper dried with a bubble? I would take a very sharp knife and cut a small slit in the paper, lift it and see if you can see the issue.

    As for the 1700 and 1400 lining paper bubbling, there shouldn’t be any difference if paper is well soaked and stuck well.

    Date posted : April 4th, 2015 at 3:58 pm
  5. KATH Says:

    Have just had interior walls of the house painted by professional decorators. All rooms painted with Dulux Matt finish are fine including embossed wallpaper. The hall stairs and landing have been painted with VALSPAR Matt Paint & Primer In One and the colour was mixed to one I chose from their colour chart. After two coats of paint the walls looked a mess some areas are matt, rough and very uneven and other areas are silk finish in appearance. I bought more paint from B & Q and had a further coat applied. The appearance is no better and after almost two weeks ther is still a strong odour from the paint. I have contacted the manufacturer/supplier Valspar UK who are very reluctant to send a representative out to inspect the finish of the paint. They have asked I take pictures and forward them on for their inspection and advise they have checked the batch and code of the paint and find there are no issues with the product. They have also said the matt/silk effect could be due to the paper to which it was applied being slightly embossed. What would be your opinion to their response.
    ( I have since found numerous complaints on a consumer affairs on-line forum from customers who have experienced similar problems )

    Date posted : April 12th, 2015 at 6:12 pm
  6. Adrian Says:

    @Kath

    I haven’t used Valspar so can not really comment.

    Date posted : April 17th, 2015 at 4:14 pm
  7. Chris Says:

    I’m about to have my room decorated and have decided to put up some super fresco rocco grey paper , should I put up linning paper first and if so what thickness should I use , the room is very big and not that warm

    Date posted : April 14th, 2015 at 5:15 pm
  8. Adrian Says:

    @Chris

    Without seeing the walls it is a job to say.
    I usually use 1400 grade lining paper. If you want to keep heat in, look at a thermal liner.

    Date posted : April 17th, 2015 at 3:00 pm
  9. Rebecca Says:

    Hi

    We have just had all the artex plastered over in the living room and it looks brilliant. However We now want the bedroom doing, which I originally thought I could put up with. As it caused such a mess having the living room done we would have to move all the bedroom furniture out if we decided to plaster over. Because the artex in the bedroom is a different pattern and not as thick could we paper over it with thick lining paper and then paint. We also have coving so this wouldn’t get affected if we did that.

    Many thanks

    Date posted : May 7th, 2015 at 6:56 pm
  10. Adrian Says:

    @Rebecca

    It is hard to comment as I haven’t seen the thickness of the artex, but as a general rule I wouldn’t paper over artex. The wallpaper adhesive will only stick on the ‘high’ spots and the lining paper could easily lift.

    Date posted : May 8th, 2015 at 1:59 pm
  11. Rose Says:

    Hi,

    I need some advise on painting. I am in the process of redecorating a bedroom and the ceiling has been painted blood red by the former owner. What would be the best paint to use in order to remove all traces of red? I intend on painting it white/cream?

    Thanks

    Date posted : May 20th, 2015 at 1:14 pm
  12. Adrian Says:

    @Rose

    Some strong colours can be hard to get rid of, blood red being one of them. I typically go over it with a white emulsion before painting with the final colour, but as you say you may be going for a white or cream, you could simply give it a couple of white coats then your normal one or two, or you can buy an obliterating paint this has a high pigment level and great opacity. A quick search will give you a list of retailers.

    Hope that helps, let us know how it goes.

    Date posted : May 20th, 2015 at 2:16 pm
  13. Paul Says:

    The last time I papered, in a number of places a gap appeared between the papered joints, but only on the bottom two feet or so. I am looking to do it again and have checked the walls and they appear to be slightly bowed. I thought it may have been the paper shrinking, but now I am not so sure. Can you recommend a way of papering to prevent recurrence as I don’t want to have the walls replastered. Many thanks

    Date posted : May 30th, 2015 at 10:04 am
  14. Adrian Says:

    @Paul

    Lining paper can shrink on the joints, it even says so on the labels. As they suggest and as I do, if this happens use some fine filler to fill the joints before painting over. I doubt bowed walls would cause that much shrinkage, ensure the lengths are hung plumb straight.

    The only other suggestion is don’t over work the joints as this can stretch the paper and it could shrink as it dries out.

    Date posted : May 30th, 2015 at 2:39 pm
  15. Liz coombs Says:

    Can I put lining paper on a wall that has a flat paint

    Date posted : June 9th, 2015 at 6:37 pm
  16. Adrian Says:

    @Liz

    As long as the paint is sound, yes you can.

    Date posted : June 9th, 2015 at 6:55 pm
  17. Verity Says:

    Hi Adrian,

    I am in the middle of decorating my daughters nursery in a victorian property. I have removed all the wallpaper which revealed different coloured gypsum plasterwork underneath. A lot of the plaster has come away, leaving large holes which I am filling and sanding down. Our house has subsidence and it has been suggested that I use a good lining paper instead of paying for a plaster skim (which may crack due to the subsidence). I was told lining paper can be applied with a minute gap between each section, which I should then fill carefully with filler. Apparently this will prevent the wallpaper puckering if there is any further movement. Please could you advise which filler I should use for such a fine job and what grade lining paper – 1400? Also do I need to prep the old plaster walls with anything before I start?
    thanks!

    Date posted : June 30th, 2015 at 10:04 pm
  18. Adrian Says:

    @Verity

    Yes 1400 grade is what I mostly use, and should be OK for the job you are doing. Once you have prepared the walls I would ‘size’ them with some watered down wallpaper paste to help seal the filler and bare plaster etc.
    You can leave a small gap and fill it using a fine surface filler and lightly rubbing it down when dry. You don’t say if you are painting or papering over the lining paper, if you are papering over the lining you don’t have to fill the gaps. Hope that helps.

    Date posted : July 2nd, 2015 at 2:06 pm
  19. Helen Says:

    Hi, we are currently renovating our new house which was last decorated in the 60s/70s. There is a section of bedroom wall that has been papered with very low grade lining paper and painted over with what looks like kitchen/bathroom waterproof paint. I have tried scoring the paper in large and small sections and steaming it with wallpaper stripper but it is incredibly difficult to remove as the steam moisture doesn’t penetrate into the paper. The lining paper is so thin that I can’t get purchase to pull at it dry or with a scraper. Have you got any tips about removing it, thanks?

    Date posted : July 26th, 2015 at 8:36 pm
  20. Adrian Says:

    @Helen

    Sadly there is no easy way. Be careful with the steamer otherwise you may start blowing the plaster off the wall.
    I normally use a bucket of water and a brush. Soak the wall, leave it a while then dial it again, then have a cuppa and then soak it again. Then try removing it. It will be a slow process but a water proof type paint can hold the water from soaking in. So you may only be able to do small areas at a time. Best of luck!!

    Date posted : July 26th, 2015 at 9:36 pm
  21. Dec Says:

    Hello

    I’ve got a condensation problem in a room and have removed the old wall paper. I’m going to clean off the black mould underneath and repair any holes with plaster. The walls arnt in a great state so I was planning on rubbing them down then hanging poly backed insulated lining paper on the external wall where the problem is and a 1700 grade lining paper around the rest of the room before painting. Couple of questions though;
    What grit sandpaper to use to get a clean smooth finish?
    How do I prime the walls before I put the lining paper up? Was thinking of using a pva based solution over the plaster first then letting it dry before lining. Is this recommended I’ve heard arguments for and against using pva.
    Once the walls are lined do I have to fill the joins with a filler prior to painting?

    And finally should I pay extra for an anti condensation paint or buy a regular paint and add a solution to it?
    Also I’m adding an air vent to help with the air circulation so hopefully I’ve covered all angles

    Date posted : July 27th, 2015 at 6:16 am
  22. Adrian Says:

    @Dec

    I use 80 grit as a general abrasive and 60 grit for anything that needs a bit more work, such as filler.

    You can PVa the walls, a watered down mix is OK, You can use paste to size the walls also. If the walls are that bad a non vinyl emulsion could seal the walls and you can fill and rub down any holes etc you may see.

    You shouldn’t have to fill the joints in the lining paper but if there is a small gap, a lightweight or surface filler applied to the joint and then carefully rubbed down should solve the issue.

    Ideally the wall needs to breath so adding an air vent is a good idea.

    Date posted : July 30th, 2015 at 1:21 pm
  23. Terry Leigh Says:

    I have a couple of rooms which have very well applied vinyl wallpaper. I would like to remove the top coat of vinyl to leave the backing paper. Assuming the backing paper is in good condition and firmly applied, can I:
    a) Paint over this backing paper with Vinyl matt paint?
    OR
    b) Wallpaper over this backing paper?
    Ideally I would like to do both operations. A combination of painted walls and a feature papered wall in each room.
    Would it be worth testing a small section of the room for each method?
    Any feedback much appreciated.
    Best wishes
    Terry

    Date posted : July 27th, 2015 at 3:54 pm
  24. Adrian Says:

    @Terry

    Yes you can paint over the backing paper if it is OK.

    You could also wallpaper over backing paper if it is OK, but I always like to remove it to be 100% sure there won’t be any complications.

    You could try a small section if you are keeping the backing paper.

    Date posted : July 30th, 2015 at 1:23 pm
  25. Trudi Says:

    Great site, Adrian. We are getting ready to paper a cold external wall and I wondered about using a graphite insulating paper. Any advice, please?

    Date posted : July 28th, 2015 at 8:56 am
  26. Adrian Says:

    @Trudi

    I have not used this before but could help you in your situation.

    Date posted : July 30th, 2015 at 1:26 pm
  27. Terry Says:

    Hi Adrian
    I agree with Trudi. You have a very good site.

    Final question. In another room, I will be painting over some old well applied light grey/ green non vinyl wallpaper. In the past I have painted over wallpaper with vinyl matt emulsion and have never experienced any problems. I read somewhere that it might be advisable to apply a primer before applying the matt emulsion to block out the colour/ prevent bleeding etc.

    Is this overkill or would you recommend?

    Again I suppose it might be a good idea to test a small section of wall. The final colour in the room to be painted will be mid-grey.

    If you do recommend a primer, is it readily available and what type would you buy?

    Hope this makes sense and thanks for any feedback you are able to give.

    Best wishes

    Terry

    Date posted : July 31st, 2015 at 8:03 am
  28. Adrian Says:

    @Terry

    Glad you like the site.

    I only go over an existing colour to block it out if it is a strong colour such as blues, reds etc. I don’t normally if the new colour is near the old.

    If I want to block out a colour I normally use a Matt White emulsion before going over with a colour. Normally using same paint as ceiling at the same time.
    You can however buy an obliterating paint that has good opacity and covers well.

    So in answer to your question, if the new colour is similar. Save time and money and just paint new colour. If a strong colour change use white emulsion or an obliterating paint before new colour.
    Hope that helps.

    Date posted : July 31st, 2015 at 9:20 am
  29. Terry Says:

    Hi Adrian
    Your 2 responses have been TOTALLY helpful.
    Thank you so much.
    Best
    Terry

    Date posted : July 31st, 2015 at 12:49 pm
  30. Adrian Says:

    @Terry

    Glad to help 🙂

    Date posted : August 1st, 2015 at 2:53 pm
  31. Lee Says:

    Hi Adrian,

    I have recently moved into a 1970’s built house. The front room has lining paper on the walls and has been painted over. It all appears to be in good shape however there are some parts which have come away from the wall mainly around the edges. I am just wondering if it is worth repasting the paper or is there a risk of it coming away at other points?

    Thanks

    Date posted : August 7th, 2015 at 2:09 pm
  32. Adrian Says:

    @Lee

    I would stick back the lifted paper and emulsion, if the rest is sound it will save lots of time and money. If it however does bubble slightly, leave to dry fully as sometimes it will tighten back up again.

    Date posted : August 11th, 2015 at 3:41 pm
  33. Lee Says:

    Thanks Adrian! Great advice. What would you suggest to fill the join lines betwwen the lining paper sheets?

    Date posted : August 12th, 2015 at 10:15 am
  34. Adrian Says:

    @Lee

    Either a fine surface filler or ordinary powder filler made a bit more watery than normal. Just try and get it in joints not all over paper, when dry use a fine sandpaper, or sponge block to sand back.

    Date posted : August 14th, 2015 at 2:16 pm
  35. Matthew Bowler Says:

    I went to college a few years ago when I was 16 to do painting and decorating, but I haven’t always worked as a Painter and Decorator and I need some advice on matters of lining paper and sand paper. It can be quite confusing when getting this materials because of the grades and I would like to use the right grades for the right jobs. Is 1200-1400 grades of lining paper alright for most jobs? I would usually use 120 grades of sanding paper for preparation work, but I should use something like 180 when it is progressing? Thanks.

    Date posted : August 21st, 2015 at 12:27 pm
  36. Adrian Says:

    @Matthew

    I typically use 1400 grade lining paper, it is OK for most jobs. 120 grade again is OK. I sometimes use a used piece of 80 grade also, depends on the job really.

    Date posted : August 24th, 2015 at 1:30 pm
  37. Beck Says:

    Hello this site has been very useful!
    But I have another problem! I had a big crack in the wall, So I removed all the wallpaper and then I filled it, I tried to spread the filler so it blended in with the wall. I thought I would sand any excess filler when it was dry. I used flexible filler and didn’t realise I wouldn’t be able to sand it afterwards. I realised my mistake straight away when I tried to sand away the excess which does not work. I then decided to put the lining paper up anyway as it is very thick and hoped it would hide any imprefections, I used wallrock fibreliner, but now its on the wall and dry I can still see where I have filled which is not smooth. Can I get some suitable filler that I can then sand, and apply this over the lining paper? I really don’t want to remove the lining paper you see! Many thanks

    Date posted : August 25th, 2015 at 5:15 pm
  38. Adrian Says:

    @Beck

    Really the only solution is use powder filler, such as polyfiller, and fill it, then gently rub the filler down when dry. If you rub too hard it will damage the paper and show. The other alternative of course is to remove paper and sort the problem at source, then re paper?

    Date posted : August 30th, 2015 at 3:36 pm
  39. Matthew Bowler Says:

    Thank you very much.

    Date posted : August 28th, 2015 at 9:46 pm
  40. Mary Says:

    Hi, we’re in the process of repainting a room. There is an area by the window where the wall looks uneven and a has raised areas. The rest of the wall (quite a big area) is perfectly fine We are planning to sand the rough areas down and then put lining paper over it but wondered if we could get away with just putting lining paper on a small section of wall and some way concealing the edge of the papered area or do we need to cover the whole wall with lining paper.

    Date posted : September 15th, 2015 at 1:08 pm
  41. Adrian Says:

    @Mary

    I would recommend papering the whole wall, trying to conceal and edge could take as long as papering the whole wall and the finished result may not be perfect and you may end up keep looking at the paper edge thinking,”I wish I had papered the entire wall”

    Date posted : September 17th, 2015 at 3:28 pm
  42. CB Says:

    Our new house has textured wallpaper which we would like to remove, but it’s been put on unskimmed plasterboard.
    Would a thick lining paper cover the bumps of the textured wallpaper?
    Thanks

    Date posted : October 17th, 2015 at 8:31 pm
  43. Adrian Says:

    @CB

    The trouble with papering over textured paper is it will only adhere to the ‘high’ parts of the textured paper. I would always advise to remove paper.
    If taken of carefully you may be able to line the plasterboard and emulsion or paper?

    Date posted : October 18th, 2015 at 1:32 pm
  44. rich Says:

    i understand its not ideal papering over wood chip, but the walls underneath are in poor condition, and there is a million layers of paint over it.

    what thickness of lining paper do i need to cover woodchip walls best? do i go for the 2000 grade?

    thanks in advance

    Date posted : October 23rd, 2015 at 7:36 pm
  45. Adrian Says:

    @Rich

    If you do paper over it, use thick paper, as you say 2000 maybe, and use ready mixed paste.

    Date posted : October 28th, 2015 at 2:47 pm
  46. Terry Says:

    Hi there. Just moved to a Victorian house that’s been covered to 2 beds . I’ve stripped old paper filled sanded and put base layer of paint on hall stairs and landing .but its still showing lumps n bumps thinking of lining paper to cover and save time in having to refill and sand again. What would you suggest. I’m not a professional at papering but do a good job. Many thanks Terry

    Date posted : November 15th, 2015 at 9:43 am
  47. Adrian Says:

    @Terry

    Depends on how lumpy and bumpy it is, lining paper will not give you 100% smooth walls.
    It maybe worth filling and sanding rather than paper unless just minor defects.

    Date posted : November 19th, 2015 at 2:31 pm
  48. Rony Says:

    Hi there.

    I’m about to decorate my bedroom walls which have previously had vinyl silk painted on them (direct onto plastered walls). Who ever did the painting before did it with a brush so there are A LOT of brush marks giving a poor visual finish. I don’t want to roller over this as these brush marks will just show through again.

    I would like to hang lining paper and then put matt emulsion over that but my question is, Can you hang lining paper on vinyl silk walls ? My concern is that because the paint has quite a shine on it, the paste/paper wont stick.

    Thanks in advance.

    Date posted : November 28th, 2015 at 12:55 pm
  49. Adrian Says:

    @Rony

    Lining paper should stick to silk emulsion ok, you can give the walls a light rub down first with a fine sandpaper just to take the shine off a little.

    Date posted : November 29th, 2015 at 2:24 pm
  50. K Says:

    Which is thicker in terms of covering wall imperfections –

    ErfurtMAV Professional 2000 grade or
    Wallrock Fibreliner 150

    And which of these 2 gives the smoothest finish for painting over?

    I have used the 2000 grade on a few rooms in the house and painted over it and I do think it is good quality lining paper. The problem I am facing is that in the final room I am trying to decorate – I discovered when I was attempting to strip it, that it had one layer of bamboo like textured paper which came off quite easily with a steamer but this was papered on top of another shell patterned textured paper and this shell paper was pasted directly onto drywall with no sealer coat. Trying to remove wallpaper from paper(the drywall paper lining) is proving almost impossible and I don’t want to damage the drywall itself in the process by either over wetting it or gouging it when trying to scrape the shell paper off.

    The paper is stuck fast so I was going to just line over it and hope that the shell texture wouldn’t come through or wouldn’t be obvious if I used a thick enough lining paper.

    Hence my question of these 2 papers which one would give the best coverage? I know ErfurtMAV do thermal liners and the R300 but my budget does not extend to the £200+ the R300 would cost just to line the walls.

    Many thanks

    Date posted : December 3rd, 2015 at 5:40 am
  51. Adrian Says:

    @K

    I have not used wallrock fiberliner myself. Best ask a suppler or the manufacturer to make sure.

    Date posted : December 5th, 2015 at 4:19 pm
  52. Phil Ellia Says:

    Hi,

    We have a medieval house with lime plaster walls I painted with FB Estate emulsion. I now want to wallpaper (fed up of plain walls!) several walls – all easiest description is they are “rustic”. Do you think 1400mm lining paper will be OK?

    Many thanks

    Date posted : January 4th, 2016 at 1:30 pm
  53. Adrian Says:

    @Phil

    It is hard to say without seeing them but after any prep work that is required 1400 should be OK, it is what I typically use.

    Date posted : January 6th, 2016 at 4:47 pm
  54. Andrew Says:

    Hi Adrian, great blog I’ve learned so much just reading your blog. I’m a novice, first time decorating and I’m doing it myself. I painstakingly stripped 4 walls, 2 plaster boarded and two bricked that had woodchip wallpaper. I took my time and with very little damage to the wall I was able to remove the top layer and the sticky backing layer. Now I’m left with Especially with the two plasterboard walls is what looks to be plaster that had previously been painted and then (what looks like) a wish wash of pva primer on top (pva must of been used for the woodchip to adhere to the paint?). Where do I go from here, should I invest more time in somehow removing the pva and paint layer or should I use lining paper? My aim from the beginning was the strip the wallpaper and then paint the walls.

    Date posted : January 16th, 2016 at 8:06 pm
  55. Adrian Says:

    @Andrew

    Try filling the walls and sanding them down, then one coat of a white emulsion, this way you can see how the walls look painted, you will have to do the prep work anyway, if the walls are not good enough then line them before painting with the colour.

    Hope that helps.

    Date posted : January 17th, 2016 at 5:05 pm
  56. Jean Says:

    Hi there
    My house has had the attic converted to bedrooms thus giving the rooms sloped walls/ceiling. My problem is that the previous owner has put up what looks like poor quality lining paper and painted over. The seams are now coming apart and the walls are so poor it looks as if to try and remove the paper would, at the very least, leave holes in the wall. I’ve never seen this before but if you press the external wall where the lining paper is, it is soft! There is no dampness anywhere in the house and the area looks clean. Is there any covering I can use on top of the painted lining paper? Or if putting on new thick wallpaper is the only answer, can I hang the paper so that the current seams would lie within the new strip of wallpaper?

    Date posted : January 26th, 2016 at 1:12 pm
  57. Adrian Says:

    @Jean

    I would imagine the reason the walls seem soft is they may of been lined first with polystyrene to insulate the walls and then lined. The only problem with lining over this is it may not be stuck that well and eventually come off. If it was mine I would be inclined to remove it and start from scratch, it could save headaches later.
    You can line it horizontally (cross lined) if you wish, if you think the majority is stuck down well. If you use a border adhesive to glue down the lifted joints first.

    Date posted : January 27th, 2016 at 4:19 pm
  58. Josie Says:

    Hi Adrian

    I am about to decorate my bedroom but the ceiling is quite badly cracked from age and from an attic conversion above. We did try to stiple the ceiling a while ago but it wasn’t very successful. I did consider having the ceiling skimmed but have been advised that skim may not always stick to ceilings that have been painted and stipled in this way. Another choice was to plaster anew but we have insulation in the attic above which might start falling if we take the ceiling down. I have considered ceiling lining paper but I am not sure it will cover all the imperfections. I would appreciate your advice.

    Date posted : February 1st, 2016 at 1:59 pm
  59. Adrian Says:

    @Josie

    I think I would get the ceiling skimmed, the plasterer can advise if it cannot be done but I can’t see why it couldn’t. They could seal the ceiling and even put tape over the cracks. It should be the best long term solution.

    Hope that helps.

    Date posted : February 1st, 2016 at 4:02 pm
  60. Tony Says:

    Hi Adrian

    We are renovating and extending a 17thcentury large Georgian house and our attention is now on the halls & stairs and landing plus two of the reception rooms. Total wall area is approximately 210m2 and ceiling 50m2 all of which are plastered and have various layers of emulsioned embossed paper on them. In a considerable number of areas the paper is scuffed and the plaster is blown. The cost for stripping and replastering are extensive and it has been suggested we take an alternate approach and over line with a modern fibreglass lining paper. Your thoughts and comments willl be most welcomed and if lining paper is the way forward the any particular recommended brands / types.

    Regards

    Tony

    Date posted : February 20th, 2016 at 4:35 pm
  61. Adrian Says:

    @Tony

    I tend to like to start from scratch, so stripping wallpaper etc, making good if required. the trouble with going over old paper or blown plaster is you are only covering it up, not sorting the problems out. I know this comes at a cost but it is a long term solution.

    It is up to individual people to decide what they can do or how much they can or want to spend. This is my own opinion and will differ from others. It is also hard for me to recommend a solution without seeing the problems.

    Date posted : February 24th, 2016 at 5:03 pm
  62. neil smith Says:

    Considering a 1900’s craftsman bungalow style house. However, all walls in every room are very rough. It looks as though this a project for a beginner. Very rough. Looks as though they were going to give a “stucco” look and changed there minds. I don’t see wall paper an option at this point. Without removing all plaster, what can we do. Love the house, can be greatly improved. Help!

    Date posted : March 23rd, 2016 at 3:25 pm
  63. Adrian Says:

    @Neil

    Have you thought about a product such as smooth over or similar?

    Date posted : March 23rd, 2016 at 4:29 pm
  64. Maya Says:

    i need some advice about a ceiling… It has been papered with embossed design straight onto plasterboard about 7 years ago and paper is looking rough, seams yellowing and coming unstuck.. I am guessing stripping it will take the paper on plaster board off too?.. So is it best to repaper in heavier 1400 lining paper going in same direction as paper already attached or do something else like re board it or artex it (don’t really want do this!)… Any ideas ?? Many thanks

    Date posted : April 12th, 2016 at 10:07 pm
  65. Adrian Says:

    @Maya

    If you soak the embossed paper and let it soak in and then soak it again you maybe able to get the paper off and not damage the plasterboard too much. The key is to get it wet and let it soak and to keep the scraper flat to the ceiling to avoid digging it in.

    Date posted : April 19th, 2016 at 2:40 pm
  66. John Says:

    Hi, prepping too start wallpapering, bare walls as normal an there sound considering it’s a 1960s house, question I have can I use a single sheet horizontally around the wall?
    Once a dado rail round the room and were it was stained an hit the wall is a small rise, am considering putting a single sheet round the wall over this as I know it will cover the slight rise but question is will the single sheet show through once wallpapered or is it thin enough to come invisible once wallpapered?

    I had dado rail on hall stairs an landing, removed it an went round with heat gun an scraper too remove the old stain an varnish of the wall with great smooth result, problem is time restraint this time round in other room an that why I was thinking single sheet of lining might do the job this time round.

    Date posted : April 24th, 2016 at 10:01 am
  67. Adrian Says:

    @John

    I would imagine the lining paper would show through the wallpaper. Could try filling and feathering the edge?

    Date posted : April 24th, 2016 at 4:20 pm
  68. Leona Says:

    I would like to apply lining paper on my walls as the previous owners have use chip wood paper an wallpaper the has raised flower prints on it…what thickness do I need to use so it don’t show through as I don’t like the print that’s on there…plz help.

    Date posted : June 14th, 2016 at 8:03 am
  69. Adrian Says:

    @Leona

    My advise would be to remove the old paper and then line.

    Date posted : June 14th, 2016 at 1:31 pm
  70. Kelly Says:

    Hi, we have just stripped the kitchen that had 2 layers of tile on a roll on it and found wood panelling underneath. Coming accross different opinions of whether we should just size the wooden walls and hang the new contour wallpaper on it or line it first? What grade liner if lining? Just don’t want to hang the new wall paper and it to start coming off or grooves to show because of the wood panelling! Thanks

    Date posted : September 1st, 2016 at 3:01 pm
  71. Adrian Says:

    @Kelly

    Lining maybe the safer option, a medium grade such as 1400 should be OK.

    Date posted : September 3rd, 2016 at 1:36 pm
  72. Scermir Says:

    Hi Adrian,
    Our apartment is tiled with semi gloss textured tiles in 2000’s and I am planning to hang lining paper over the tiles and paint on it. Is it a good idea to hang a lining paper over the tiles or is there any suggestion from you? Will the lining paper well stuck over the tiles? And which grade lining paper should I use for this matter?
    Thank you.

    Date posted : September 9th, 2016 at 3:01 pm
  73. Adrian Says:

    @Scermir

    Not sure what you mean by textured tiles, if it is too textured the lining paper will not hide it.

    Date posted : September 10th, 2016 at 4:16 pm
  74. Kamie Says:

    Hi
    We live in an Edwardian property and after stripping all the old paper off it has revealed several layers of old paint old paste and old filler also a few patches of old dblack mould/damp
    Would it be a good idea to PVA the walls instead of sizing or do both to help with adhesion of lining paper
    What would be best thing to do to prepare the old tired walls
    Thanks

    Date posted : September 30th, 2016 at 5:53 pm
  75. Adrian Says:

    @Kamie

    I would be inclined to prepare the walls, fill,and treat the damp problems, then use a non vinyl emulsion and coat the walls, this will reveal any damp /water stains, any areas that need filling more. Then I would line the walls.

    Date posted : October 1st, 2016 at 2:50 pm
  76. Heather Binns Says:

    Hi
    We’ve had a new house built and the ‘professional’ decorators have made an absolute mess of the taping – walls and ceiling look dreadful in sunlight….it’s a 11m x 7m full height room.
    Contractor is proposing they fix this by using lining paper. I know this is common for older buildings but wondered if there are any drawbacks with a new build? We want white painted walls, so interested to know if paper will be seamless and if any long term implications we need to consider?
    We’re thinking plastering would be better, but obviously more expensive for contractor and messy for us – I imagine we will have to empty the room completely!
    I would really appreciate some unbiased advice
    Thanks

    Date posted : April 10th, 2017 at 5:24 pm
  77. Adrian Says:

    @Heather

    If this is a new build isn’t it the building contractors responsibility or covered under NHBC? Paper should be seamless, but plastering would be better if joints can not be re-done?

    Date posted : April 13th, 2017 at 1:58 pm
  78. Deepak Says:

    Hi Adrian – Total newbie in painting. There was a small torn patch in lining paper on a wall and whilst starting to prep, for some stupid reason I decided to tear it bigger so now its a irregular shape torn lining paper about 9 x 4 inches. Its not coming off anywhere else to be honest and is well stuck on the wall. Should I just fill fine surface filler and sand? Or any other tricks you suggest please? Thanks !

    Date posted : May 5th, 2017 at 12:22 pm
  79. Adrian Says:

    @Deepak

    If you haven’t still got the torn piece of lining paper to stick back, a fine surface filler should be OK. Be careful not to apply it too thick as rubbing it down could cause more damage to the surrounding area. Best to fill it twice if needed. Also, use a fine sandpaper so not to rough up the surrounding paper.

    Date posted : May 5th, 2017 at 1:12 pm
  80. Gina Says:

    I want to make an ugly painted breeze block wall smooth in my downstair’s foyer. Would lining paper be a good choice for this project? It is not in a basement and has no moisture issues. Any info on what grade to use would be appreciate if possible.

    Date posted : July 2nd, 2017 at 12:38 am
  81. Adrian Says:

    @Gina

    You don’t say if it a plastered wall or not. Paper wouldn’t sick to the blocks too well without having it plastered first. If it is plastered it would be fine to line.

    Date posted : July 5th, 2017 at 3:35 pm
  82. Sarah Says:

    What a wonderful, informative site!

    I have a question about lining paper / wallpapering and some advise would very much be appreciated. I have an old cottage with very uneven walls – the unevenness is quite extreme on one wall in one bedroom, with depressions of perhaps 1-2cm over maybe a metre wide patch. Would (patterned) wallpaper over lining paper be suitable here or would it look terrible? The other walls are not so bad so it may be that this wall could be painted instead. What would you advise?

    Date posted : July 3rd, 2017 at 4:19 pm
  83. Adrian Says:

    @Sarah

    Wallpaper over lining paper would be OK. Could the depression be filled? It would depend on the type of pattern as to how much the imperfections show, a busy pattern should disguise it more than a plain one.

    Date posted : July 5th, 2017 at 3:50 pm
  84. Clive Cernuschi Says:

    I wallpapered a room some years ago with plastered walls that had been painted, although when I stripped off the original paper some of the paint came off leaving patches of bare plaster. Although I used a lining paper prior to the wallpaper the patches of bare plaster showed through. I am decorating again and would like to know the best way of preventing the same thing happening again.

    Date posted : July 24th, 2017 at 8:57 am
  85. Adrian Says:

    @Clive

    You could try a thicker lining paper, I typically use 1400 gauge. Or a fibreliner which is thicker still, but this is more expensive. The other alternative is filling before lining but this is time consuming.

    Date posted : July 27th, 2017 at 4:07 pm
  86. Alan Says:

    My daughter recently purchased a 150 year old ground floor flat which had been unoccupied for 4 years.
    We have had walls professionall skimmed to a high standard. I have then started lining the walls after applying a think coat of emulsion and then pasting the walls ie sizing. It is now some 10 days and there are still quite a number of bubbles showing which is annoying because the walls were perfect. Do you think the bubbles will disappear in time? Should I refrain from lining the other rooms or do you have hints that would help prevent this when lining the other rooms?

    Date posted : August 25th, 2017 at 12:52 am
  87. Adrian Says:

    @Alan

    Did you use a non Vinyl emulsion? Did you seal the walls with anything. I’m wondering it the bubbles are the emulsion or the paper? The bubbles may go if it is the emulsion and it dries out, if however it is air bubbles under paper these wont go, try using a pin to prick the bubble and see if that helps.

    You say the walls have been skimmed to a high standard, so why line the walls? Can you not just paint or wallpaper them?

    Date posted : August 26th, 2017 at 1:54 pm
  88. Sue Says:

    We have a bedroom where the emulsion has bubbled off the wall and flaked away in places. We assume that this was due to insufficient preparation after removing wallpaper. We want to emulsion the walls again so is lining paper the way to go or is there an easier way?

    Date posted : October 13th, 2017 at 11:32 pm
  89. Adrian Says:

    @Sue

    You can fill, sand and fill and sand until smooth, or fill and sand the deepest bit and then line with 1400 gauge or above lining paper.

    Date posted : October 14th, 2017 at 3:54 pm
  90. Judy Says:

    I have a freezing cold drafty passage and I would like to know what is the difference between 1400 grade lining paper or a higher grade like 2400 grade to using graphic lined paper?

    Are there any variation in graphic lined paper?

    What types of paste and consistency of paste is advisable to use?

    Date posted : November 29th, 2017 at 4:45 pm
  91. Adrian Says:

    @Judy

    Have you looked at Thermal Liner? It is around 3mm thick. This uses a ready mixed paste.

    Date posted : November 30th, 2017 at 1:45 pm
  92. Christine massey Says:

    I am decorating my living room with just lining paper on 3 walls and then just going to emulsion it what grade lining paper will be best to use

    Date posted : January 7th, 2018 at 12:22 pm
  93. Adrian Says:

    @Christine

    Depending on the state of the walls, but I typically use 1400 gauge/grade.

    Date posted : January 7th, 2018 at 1:52 pm

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