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Lining paper – What thickness should I use?

Posted by admin
December 3rd, 2009

Lining paper grades 800 -2000

Lining paper thickness

If you are planning on decorating a room and the walls aren’t that good your best option would be to line the walls with lining paper first.

So what thickness should you use?

Lining paper comes in different thickness known as ‘grades’.
The grades range from 800 to 2000 and vary quite a lot in thickness between the lowest to the highest grade.

Some ‘DIY’ stores only stock the lower grades of lining paper, maybe up to 1200 if you’re lucky, but normally only up to 1000 grade. You can buy the thicker grade papers form ‘trade’ outlets, local suppliers or online.

If you are using some of the higher grade lining paper make sure you allow the lengths of paper enough time to soak and become pliable. The time will increase for each grade of paper thickness.

For most jobs I use 1400 grade, it is thick enough for most jobs and is easy enough to work with. I use it for both walls and ceilings.
If you decide to go for the heavier grade papers (1700 and 2000) then you may find it difficult to handle and work with, this will obviously depend on your experience and room shape and size.

Remember, lining paper isn’t a magic paper that will make your walls imperfection free, it will give you a smoother, sounder base to work from. Lining paper was designed as a base to wallpaper onto, however you can emulsion over lining paper without any problems.
You should always prepair the walls, by this I mean you still need to fill the holes with filler, rub down the walls etc.

Allow at least 12 hours for drying if you are going to emulsion the walls and 24 hours if you are going to hang wallpaper over the lining paper, if you don’t the lining paper may come off the wall.
If the room is cold or damp you may have to allow longer for drying.

If your walls are bare plaster you will need to ‘size’ the walls first. This means either buying a packet of size or alternatively a diluted mix of wallpaper paste applied to the wall.

This will stop the lining paper drying out to quickly and give a stronger adhesion to the newly plastered wall.

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Posted in Decorating Tips | 255 Comments »

255 Responses to “Lining paper – What thickness should I use?”

  1. Linda Dowson Says:

    I have moved into a 1920’s house were after we removed all the wallpaper we had the walls skimmed but 9 months on there are hair line crackes appearing all over. So now i want to put up lining paper on the walls and paint it to keep the just painted look what thickness lining paper sould i use.

    Date posted : February 15th, 2010 at 2:19 pm
  2. Adrian Says:

    I would recommend either 1200 or 1400 gauge lining paper, both these papers are ‘mid range’ easy to handle and should do the job.

    Date posted : February 15th, 2010 at 7:41 pm
  3. Les Finch Says:

    I am about to cross line an area of my grandsons bedroom with 1200 grade lining paper, this particular area has been covered by the previous owners with a form of stippled artex, should I cross line around and external corner or cut the paper just short of the corner. Any tips please,Regards

    Date posted : March 7th, 2010 at 2:42 pm
  4. Adrian Says:

    Les, I can only comment on the information you have given and it’s hard to give any sound advice without seeing the area in question. Under normal circumstances I wouldn’t recommend papering over any stippled surface as the paper will mainly only stick to the ‘high’ area’s.

    If you are going to paper over the stippled area (which I’m guessing is Polytex) ensure you scrape of as many of the high spots as possible, maybe even sand the walls a bit. Let the lining paper soak for a good 10 minutes or until it’s pliable. If the corners are really rough then I wouldn’t paper around them as the paper is more than likely to tear, cut it short of the corner.

    Ideally I would recommend the walls are skimmed with plaster or you could try SmoothOver from polycell.

    Hope this helps?

    Date posted : March 7th, 2010 at 7:15 pm
  5. Simon W Says:

    When was the artex put up. everyone should be aware that the nice textured walls and ceilings that have been done with old style artex could be asbestos based and sanding / chipping or anything that causes dust should be avoided at all costs.

    PS, i work for an asbestos removal and monitoring comany.

    Date posted : April 5th, 2010 at 8:49 pm
  6. Philip Says:

    Great website Adrian, some brilliant tips re gauge of paper etc!!!
    Philip & Andy

    Date posted : May 2nd, 2010 at 9:48 am
  7. Adrian Says:

    Found this article useful? Then you may find this article also useful.
    What is the difference between lining and cross lining? :

    Date posted : June 8th, 2010 at 6:05 pm
  8. Terry Says:

    I have purchased 2000 grade lining paper that I intend to put up over the existing paper, can you advise what the best paste would be.

    Date posted : November 4th, 2011 at 6:38 pm
  9. Adrian Says:

    Terry, there are lots of things to consider when papering over paper, you need to make sure the original paper is well stuck down, 2000 grade lining paper is a heavyweight paper and could lift of the original paper when it dries. As for paste, if it doesn’t say on the rolls of paper I would say a good quality paste but mix it strong or use a ready mixed paste. You will have to allow it to soak for some time before hanging it.

    Date posted : November 4th, 2011 at 7:02 pm
  10. mark Says:

    Solved all my problems,brilliant

    Date posted : November 24th, 2011 at 6:10 pm
  11. Sam Says:

    Adrian ~ could you be more specific regarding Good Quality paste to use.

    As you were when recommending SmoothOver by Polycell..

    Date posted : November 27th, 2011 at 7:32 pm
  12. Adrian Says:

    Sam, I tend to use Solvite paste.

    Date posted : November 27th, 2011 at 7:42 pm
  13. richard Says:

    my ceiling in my living room was plaster skimmed a few years ago over a heavily stippled polycell textured paint. the ceiling still shows some ridges and imperfections. would it be ok to skim over the ceilimg again, or can i use wallpaper lining and emulsion over it. what thickness lining paper would you use, what would be the most cost effective option.
    regards richard

    Date posted : December 11th, 2011 at 8:13 pm
  14. Adrian Says:

    Richard, It is difficult to recommend anything without actually seeing the job, you can have it re-skimmed, or you can paper it with lining paper. All depends on how bad the imperfections are. I normally use 1400 gauge lining paper which covers most things.

    Date posted : December 12th, 2011 at 7:44 am
  15. James Says:

    I have a room that has lining paper on the wall however it has been pained with emmulsion can I hang new wallpaper on top of this or do I need to strip this off the wall?

    Date posted : January 12th, 2012 at 10:23 pm
  16. Jo Says:

    Great site Adrian, found it when I googled lining paper grades.

    One question: We have stripped the woodchip off our hall walls and we can’t afford to replaster, hence the lining paper which will be emulsioned. The 100 year old plaster is reasonably sound except the surface which has lots of little holes and looks like poc-marked skin. The holes are close together and mostly about 2mm diameter. Some are much larger though, up to about 10mm dia, but still shallow so I hoped I wouldn’t have to fill them as there are loads. The exposed plaster is a little bit powdery, so should we paint the walls with something like PVA solution and then size before hanging the paper? I’m worried that when the paste from the paper touches the larger patches it will pull out a few grains and these will go lumpy under the paper. I was going to try 1700 grade here as I’m fairly confident hanging paper and 1400 as I go up the stairs where it gets a bit trickier then blend the joint between the two grades with filler, if it shows. Oh, sorry this is so long!


    Date posted : January 16th, 2012 at 1:09 pm
  17. Adrian Says:

    Yes you can hang new wallpaper over painted lining paper.
    Hope that helps.

    Date posted : January 16th, 2012 at 6:35 pm
  18. Adrian Says:

    You may be best to skim the wall with a thin layer of filler, rub it down and then seal the wall with a cheap emulsion, lightly rub the wall down when it’s emulsioned, then line the wall and emulsion the paper as normal.
    Hope that helps.

    Date posted : January 16th, 2012 at 6:39 pm
  19. jim Says:

    I am going to try and hang lining paper for the first time. All the wall are in quite good condition so I was going to use a 1400 and paint it afterwards. Should the paper be horizontally or vertically. If horizontally do I start at the top or the bottom of the wall.

    Date posted : April 9th, 2012 at 6:33 pm
  20. Adrian Says:


    Vertically will be fine as your painting it afterwards. Just hang it like normal paper. Let us know how it goes!

    Date posted : April 10th, 2012 at 7:14 am
  21. Claire Says:

    What is the difference between single lining paper and double lining paper?

    Date posted : April 12th, 2012 at 7:33 pm
  22. Adrian Says:


    Single and double usually refers to the length of the roll, single being 10m, double being 20m and even quad being 40m.

    Date posted : April 13th, 2012 at 7:37 am
  23. Claire Says:

    Thanks for that

    Date posted : April 13th, 2012 at 7:47 am
  24. vicky Says:

    hi – we live in a victorian house and there is the original anaglypta on the walls however there are patches that don’t match. We have sourced the original pattern so we can match up all the paper – we are a little wary of stripping the patches that dont match as we’re not sure how sound the plaster is underneath. Would putting up a heavy lining paper to cover the patches and then put up our new anaglypta over that be a feasible option?

    Date posted : April 23rd, 2012 at 12:10 pm
  25. Jonathan Davies Says:

    Hi, we have a house full of walls covered in woodchip paper. We did consider using a cover your woodchip type product from the likes of Polycell but I think it would be easier to just re-paper. There’s so much woodchip it wouldn’t be practical to strip it all but would 1000 gauge lining paper be sufficient for the reason that I’m finding it hard to find 1400.

    Being a bit of a wallpapering novice your advice would be much appreciated. Thanks, Jonathan

    Date posted : April 23rd, 2012 at 2:27 pm
  26. Adrian Says:

    @ Vicky

    I can only give my opinion here. I am never in favour of papering over old paper. Sadly I feel that for the long term removing the old paper would be the best bet. If you put lining paper over the old paper then paper that with anaglypta as the paste dries it could well lift the paper underneath. You could always look at the Wallrock range, such as the R300 Liner. I have not used this product but worth looking into?

    Date posted : April 24th, 2012 at 7:47 am
  27. Adrian Says:

    @ Jonathan

    As I said previously, I’m not in favour of papering over paper. 1000 gauge paper isn’t thick enough to cover woodchip and would still show through bumpy. There are many sites online selling 1400 gauge lining paper. You could also search for Wallrock R300 Liner, I have not used this product but they say it can go over woodchip!

    Date posted : April 24th, 2012 at 7:55 am
  28. Martin Says:

    I have just finnised a room in my house and used linning paper for that room. But after twenty four hours I painted the room,with emultion paint but some parts of the linning paper has come away from the wall.What have I done wrong.Can you help me please.

    Date posted : May 1st, 2012 at 8:19 pm
  29. Adrian Says:

    @ Martin

    It sounds as if either you didn’t put enough paste on or didn’t leave it long enough to soak. Alternatively the wall behind had dust or loose material on it. You will have to lift the loose paper and apply paste to the paper, leave it to soak for 5-10 minutes and then stick the paper back, allow to fully dry for about 24 hours, then re-emulsion if need be.

    Date posted : May 2nd, 2012 at 7:58 am
  30. Georgina Says:

    We have moved into a house painted in silk paint. We want to repaint in matt but obviously need to use lining paper first or it will crack. Do we still need to sand the walls down or just put the lining paper straight onto the silk?

    Date posted : May 31st, 2012 at 10:07 am
  31. kk86 Says:

    Hi there I have been lining the walls in my hallway with my dad however seeing as this is the first time both of us have done this we have managed to get some of the paste on the right side of the paper. I assume that the excess paste soaks into the paper? Is it ok to paint onto this or should I seal the walls before painting??

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

    Date posted : June 7th, 2012 at 11:10 pm
  32. Kev Says:

    What is the best way to emulsion lining paper, brush, roller, or paintpad.

    Date posted : June 13th, 2012 at 10:17 am
  33. Hazel Says:

    Hi Kev
    Adrian has actually written an article called : “Can I paint over lining paper?”
    It is here :
    Hope that helps

    Date posted : June 13th, 2012 at 10:34 am
  34. Norrie Says:

    Hi Adrian, I am a diy enthusiast, I have helped lots of pals modernise their homes. My most recent was an old house which I stripped all the walls. Someone suggested I start a small business stripping walls. In your opinion would there be a market or do painters and decorates do this. Just a wee thought.

    Date posted : July 10th, 2012 at 4:31 pm
  35. Chris Says:

    I want to hang lining over old painted walls, what grade should i use and should i butt the edges together or should i leave a gap to fill in afterwards, if so how big a gap?

    Many thanks.

    Date posted : August 13th, 2012 at 12:13 pm
  36. Danielle Bailey Says:

    HI Adrian!

    I have just moved into a post war Council House, the whole house is in a state!!! In the living room I have stripped half of the paper and it is full of cracks and dried glue from where I have removed the paper, also some parts have been replastered with rough edges. I intended to paint this room but it would take me forever and a day to fill bits and sand the glue off so I am thinking lining paper then paint? I have never hung paper and wouldn’t know where to start!!!!!!!!!! What grade would you suggest and any tips on hanging it would be FAB!!!

    Also…. The rest of the house is decorated in the most untasteful paper! can I just paint over it instead of stripping it?!! (please say yes!!!!!!)

    Thanks, Danielle

    Date posted : August 15th, 2012 at 8:55 pm
  37. Adrian Says:

    @Norrie I would suggest canvassing your local area to see if there is a demand before starting a business.

    @Chris You should butt the paper edges and normally 1200 -1400 is suitable but it does depend on the condition of the walls.

    @Danielle Lining paper isn’t a miracle cure, you still have to do the preparation before painting unfortunately. Again, 1200 – 1400 should be OK and easy to manage and hang. I wouldn’t paint over old wallpaper myself as you never know how well stuck it is and it may start peeling of as you paint, also vinyl papers will be hard to cover with at least four coats I would imagine.

    Some useful links for you:
    Decoration or Preparation? –
    How to wallpaper around a door –
    Wallpapering around a window or door reveal –
    Feature Walls : How To Wallpaper A Fire Breast Wall –

    Date posted : August 21st, 2012 at 9:12 am
  38. karen Says:

    Hi I have found a foil paper that i want to use… walls are ok but I’ve been advised to use a linen lining paper first as it will show every little imperfection…..whats the difference between this and normal lining paper apart from more expensive? Thanks

    Date posted : September 9th, 2012 at 3:36 pm
  39. Adrian Says:


    I use 1400 gauge lining paper over a well prepared surface and not had any problems but I guess it’s down to personal choice and how much the foil paper cost!

    Date posted : September 11th, 2012 at 8:25 am
  40. Jack Says:

    Hi can I install lining paper over old wallpaper
    And what paste we should use
    Also do I need to seal the wallpaper before hang the new wallpaper

    Date posted : October 4th, 2012 at 8:28 am
  41. Adrian Says:

    You can paper over old paper but as I have said before I wouldn’t do it myself. if the old paper is vinyl you will have real issues with edges staying stuck. In my opinion if you paying out for wallpaper you may as well do the ob right and remove the old paper first so that the new paper has the best chance of staying stuck to the wall.

    Date posted : October 5th, 2012 at 6:37 am
  42. Tracey Says:

    What is the best way to remove a self adhesive border from lining paper that has been painted without removing the paper?

    Date posted : October 15th, 2012 at 6:34 pm
  43. Adrian Says:

    In a word, carefully 🙂
    If you can get the top layer off the border soak the under layer with water and let it soak for a long time, then wet it again, then try and peel or scrape it off.
    If you cant get the top layer off, you may be lucky and be able to peel it off, depending on how strong the glue is.

    Date posted : October 16th, 2012 at 7:55 am
  44. vivien Says:

    I have a house built in 1880, the walls arent the best in my bedroom. I am having fitted wardrobes and wondered what type of lining paper to use on the walls in the wardrobe to keep my clothes in good condition. Also which way do you hang the wallpaper. Ive never papered before.

    Date posted : November 11th, 2012 at 8:24 pm
  45. Adrian Says:

    You can use a good thickness lining paper such as 1400 gauge but if your worried about dampness you can help this by apply a “Thermal Liner”. You can hang lining paper wither horizontally or vertically, vertically may be easier if you haven’t papered before.

    Date posted : November 13th, 2012 at 8:11 am
  46. cathal o'sullivan Says:

    I am planning to try to line a very old (1900) kitchen ceiling. my plan is to use 1400 gauge lining paper, followed by wallpaper. a few questions……1. is it clear which side do i put the paste on the lining paper? 2. more relevantly, do I cover all the surface with adhesive/solvite? I presume I do? and finally, 3. do I wallpaper at right angles to the lining paper? I thought this might be a good idea?

    Date posted : December 4th, 2012 at 11:01 pm
  47. Adrian Says:


    In answer to your questions:

    1. Imagine the lining paper is ordinary wallpaper as you unroll it, paste the back as you would wallpaper.
    2. Cover all the surface with wallpaper paste making sure the edges are well covered, leave to soak until pliable, normally about 10 minutes.
    3. You can wallpaper at right angles to the lining paper, yes. You don’t have to as the lining paper is normally wider than the wallpaper you joins shouldn’t sit on one another.

    Hope that helps!

    Date posted : December 5th, 2012 at 7:41 am
  48. Liam Says:

    I’m mid-way through decorating my bedroom, I’ve stripped all of the wood chip and the layer of paint under the wallpaper is lumpy, some areas are plaster, some are paint. I’ve come to the conclusion of putting lining paper up, how would I tackle such a task considering there is flakey paint etc. still on the wall? What thickness wallpaper should I use? Many thanks!

    Date posted : December 5th, 2012 at 11:22 am
  49. Adrian Says:

    You need to remove any lose flaky paint, fill any holes. I would personally skim the walls with filler if they were really bad and rub them down. Lining paper will help give you a smooth surface but won’t hide all the blemishes so depending on how thick the remaining paint is on the wall you may still see it through the lining paper. You don’t say if you are just emulsioning over the walls or re-papering them. I would use 1400 gauge lining paper.

    Useful links:
    Decoration or Preparation? –
    How to wallpaper –
    How to fill crack to walls and ceilings –
    Wallpapering around a window or door reveal –
    Decorating an interior room, and in which order –

    Hope that helps

    Date posted : December 5th, 2012 at 12:07 pm
  50. Liam Says:

    Thanks for the advice, the paint is a majority flaky. Polycell do an undercoat / smoothover fuller type paste, can I just put a layer of this on prior to wallpaper?

    Date posted : December 5th, 2012 at 4:30 pm
  51. Adrian Says:


    If the majority of paint is flaky I would scrape as much off as possible, if you use the smoothover it may lift or drag the lose paint over the other paint leaving you with more lumps and bumps than you already have now. I have never used smoothover myself but yes I think you can probably just wallpaper over it.

    Hope that helps.

    Date posted : December 5th, 2012 at 4:55 pm
  52. mark mcevoy Says:

    Adrian have just papered a ceiling with 1400 lining paper with a view to emulsion over..the ceiling wasn in a bad condition but was painted..after hanging a few strips i noticed excessive air bubbbles formed..pulled paper back to smooth out but a lot of the paint came off on the back of the paper..applied more paste and rehung..everything seemed to be fine but after 24 hours parts of the paper had come away from the ceiling especially the edges..again spent a great deal of time repasteing the edges and places where the paper had dropped..also in one corner of the ceiling the actual plaster had come away with the paper also..after sorting all these problems left the paper for a further 48 hours to make sure everything was fine..visually everything looked great except for a few minor gaps at some edges..problem now is after the first coat of emulsion bubbles have appeared everywhere on the lining there anything can be done without having to take it all down

    Date posted : December 14th, 2012 at 10:14 am
  53. Adrian Says:


    It sounds to me as if the original paint on the ceiling was simply painted over the new plater so it is sitting on the top of the plaster so to speak, the new plaster should of had a mist coat first to seal it as described in my postHow to paint new plasterwork

    The only thing I would suggest is allow this coat of paint to fully dry before putting any more emulsion on the ceiling. It sounds like the moisture from the emulsion is soaking in the paper, paste and original paint and lifting it off. The paper and bubbles should reduce or completely go once it has dried out and the paper should tighten as long as it doesn’t pull the first coat of emulsion of the ceiling.

    So, as I say wait for this coat to fully dry before attempting another coat. Let us know how it goes, good luck.
    Hope that helps.

    Date posted : December 14th, 2012 at 10:22 am
  54. Dave Says:

    Great site; I’m learning a lot.
    Here’s my situation: new client, has wallpaper EVERYWHERE–every seam has
    popped (townhouse built 25 years ago-the paper was hung well but with bad prep work over builder’s flat sprayed on sheetrock)
    I can strip and prep and beautify for painting, but she also wants estimate for possibly installing new paper.
    Here’s my question: would hanging 1400 weight lining paper horizontally do the trick or is this hopeless for wallpaper.
    Thanks for whatever advice you can give.

    Date posted : January 9th, 2013 at 4:56 pm
  55. Adrian Says:


    It sounds like you are saying the walls were not prepared correctly, if you do the wallpapering for this job my advice would be prep the walls well and only line the walls if really needed, you can hang the paper either horizontally or vertically.

    Date posted : January 11th, 2013 at 7:57 am
  56. Alistair Says:

    Hi just moved into a house where all the paint has come off the ceiling it looks like new plaster underneath but in some places the paint has stuck really well any advice on how to get this off as I’ve tried steaming it with no joy

    Date posted : January 24th, 2013 at 8:11 pm
  57. Adrian Says:

    Have you tried using a very thin wide scrapper, you may be able to get underneath the paint and lift it off.

    Date posted : January 25th, 2013 at 10:23 am
  58. Nikki Says:

    Hi there
    I have recently stripped my walls of woodchip wallpaper, as I am really not keen on it, only to find why it was put up! Very, very bumpy walls. My house is old, 1920’s I believe. I would love to have them skimmed but absolutely cannot afford it. I also really don’t like these textured, patterned wallpapers. I have 1700 grade lining paper up now but you can still see the imperfections as clear as day. Can you recommend anything that can keep my walls plain and free of textures or patterns without the cost of re-plaster and that won’t so obviously show these hideous bumps please? Many thanks.

    Date posted : January 30th, 2013 at 10:36 pm
  59. Adrian Says:

    1700 gauge lining paper should cover most things but as I say in this post “lining paper isn’t a magic paper that will make your walls imperfection free, it will give you a smoother, sounder base to work from” spending time filling and rubbing down is far better than just going for lining paper. You say you house is 1920’s, plaster has moved on a long way since then and many people like the ‘character’ of an older house and it’s imperfections.

    Ideally having the walls plastered would be the ideal solution, but using something like Wallrock R300 Liner which is 1.2mm thick may help. This is expensive also unfortunately. I doubt it will remove all the bumps and lumps as any paper will follow the contours of the wall.

    Date posted : January 31st, 2013 at 8:56 am
  60. Nikki Says:

    I’ve just ordered a sample of the wallrock kv600. Would I be able to put this on top of the lining paper or would it have to go on bare walls? Unfortunately my wall imperfections are due to having a damp-proof course sometime in the past, the skimming doesn’t match the original wall, therefore a line is showing half way up and also two dado rails have been removed from the walls leaving very uneven marks due to a botched plaster job. Even my light fittings have dodgy plastering above them all the way to the ceiling. I’m hoping this wallrock kv600 being 4mm thick may disguise a lot of sins as it’s still cheaper than re-plastering, but I do need to know if it can be put on the 1700 grade lining paper. Many thanks adrian.

    Date posted : January 31st, 2013 at 1:04 pm
  61. Adrian Says:

    I’ve not actually used wallrock Nikki, but as it is so thick and you have to use pre-mixed paste I would assume going onto bare walls is the best option. Best check with the supplier but my guess would be bare walls. It’s funny how dado and picture rails never get removed and made good well, bane of my life!

    I always wonder why when damp course is done they don’t ever give the option to plaster over all the wall, it never blends in well!

    Hope the information has helped.

    Date posted : February 2nd, 2013 at 7:54 am
  62. ian Says:

    Hi Adrian
    While stripping wallpaper, we’ve found ragged areas of paint behind that are still adhering to the walls in many places, while in other areas it’s peeled away patchily. It’s a dreadful mess for prepping.

    Two questions are: if we size the walls, will it help to hide the ragged edges between the paint patches and the areas of bare plaster? And what thickness of lining paper will disguise the ragged edges? We want to emulsion after lining. Grateful for your guidance, please.

    Date posted : February 1st, 2013 at 11:15 am
  63. Adrian Says:

    If the paint is thick, you will have to feather out the edge out with filler and rub down. If you size the walls it will not hide the ragged edges. For lining I would use 1400 gauge as a minimum.

    Date posted : February 2nd, 2013 at 7:59 am
  64. ian Says:

    Hi Adrian and thanks for your earlier advice.

    I’ve come unstuck trying to wrap 1400 gauge lining paper into a window reveal.

    The problem is that the LP doesn’t seem to have adhered to the wall close to where it turns into the reveal. Elsewhere on the wall and inside the reveal it’s stuck fine.

    We’ve used Mangers Ready-mixed adhesive: compared to water-based adhesives that I’ve used before, it’s a lot thicker and doesnt seem to soak into the paper so readily. However, I’m confident that the paper was thoroughly and carefully pasted. But I gave the LP only 10 mins “soak” time and it felt very rigid when I bent it around the corner into the reveal. I’ve given 15+ mins soak time to subsequent lengths and not had this problem.

    Could the problem be due to insufficient soak time? And what can I do now that the paper is stuck to the rest of the wall? We plan on emulsioning the LP.

    Date posted : February 18th, 2013 at 3:45 pm
  65. Adrian Says:


    It sounds like a soaking time issue, I use water-based paste for lining paper and give it a good 10 minutes to soak so it’s good and pliable. I don’t think you will be able to get the edge to stick, could you take this drop of paper off and re-paper this section, or you could try cutting in a length of paper, remove the paper that hasn’t stuck, cut a piece of paper just bigger, paste and soak well, stick new paper in place and cut through both pieces of paper then remove the underneath paper and stick down the edge.

    Date posted : February 19th, 2013 at 9:15 am
  66. simon Says:

    Hi, I have just lined my walls with 1400 lining paper and have just brought paste the wall wallpaper is it ok to paste over the top of the lining paper or would you recommend just pasting the wallpaper.

    Date posted : February 22nd, 2013 at 7:35 pm
  67. Adrian Says:


    As long as the lining paper is stuck well to the wall you should be OK. I sometimes paste the wallpaper as well.

    Date posted : February 26th, 2013 at 7:57 am
  68. Steve Says:

    I’ve just completed the painting of the skirting of my bedroom (undercoat only) and will start to apply the linning paper to the walls. When was carrying out the painting, i managed to slightly paint onto the walls and someone has told me that linning will not stick to paint and will eventually peel. Is this true??

    Date posted : March 1st, 2013 at 12:43 pm
  69. Adrian Says:

    This is true, before you paper you should lightly scratch the surface the paint you have got on the wall. Any paint with a slight gloss or sheen to it needs rubbing down to key it before papering. Emulsion and matt paints tend to be OK.

    Date posted : March 2nd, 2013 at 7:58 am
  70. Angela Says:

    Hi, I am in the middle of doing my small kitchen and have already plastered 2 very small walls, realising how difficult it is to get a nice smooth finish i ended up cross lining the walls with 1400 lining paper, my ceiling is also in a bad way after scrapping away stippling artex knowing how hard it is too skim can I cross line the ceiling or is the idea a fire hazard?,please any advice most welcome. thanks.

    Date posted : March 23rd, 2013 at 7:11 pm
  71. Adrian Says:

    Iv’e never seen a scrapped off artex ceiling that is good enough to put lining paper over. Plastering it is the best option if you could. You could try steaming the remaining artex off then lining the ceiling? Steaming it off is a messy job but if you can get back to the original ceiling it would be better.

    Date posted : March 24th, 2013 at 8:28 am
  72. paul Says:

    I have put lining paper on the walls and left it for about 3 days I then put the wallpaper on top of the lining paper and the lining paper is lifting of the wall and is causing the paper to bubble

    Date posted : August 4th, 2013 at 10:05 pm
  73. Adrian Says:

    It sounds to me as if the lining paper has not adhered well to the wall. This could be for a number of reasons:

    The walls had flaky paint on them and is now coming off the wall.
    The walls had dirt/dust on them, such as filler dust.
    The plaster is lifting off the wall (extreme case)
    There wasn’t enough paste used or paste had dried out before lining paper was hung.

    If I line the walls in preparation for wallpapering I always go over the lining paper with wallpaper paste to help seal it and to give the wallpaper extra paste to stick too.

    In your case the only solution I can see would be re-line the walls before continuing with lining paper, lining paper is far cheaper than wallpaper.

    I take it the wallpaper you have put up and left to dry hasn’t dried flat, sometimes bubbles appear but will go as the paper dries out fully.

    Date posted : August 6th, 2013 at 2:51 pm
  74. Jo Says:

    In a corner wall of a bedroom where there was damp on ceiling downstairs a very small area of painted lining paper has lifted from the wall. About 2cm x .5cm has been knocked and come away. If we knock there is hollowness for about 5cm on one wall and 3 cm on the other to 8cm high. The corner sits behind a cupboard so for us is not very visible.
    can we use pva to readhere the raised are and just fill the hole with polyfilla or smoothover or do we need to completely remove all wallpaper and repaper?

    Date posted : August 11th, 2013 at 1:14 am
  75. Adrian Says:


    As the area you mention is not visible you can stick the knocked of lining paper with PVA. Ensure the leak is completely fixed and the wall is dried out, but also be aware that when you re-decorate the room it sounds as if the loose plaster will need attention. Another thing to look out for is mould, if the wall has been damp and is as you say behind a cupboard the air may not circulate and mould could form.

    Date posted : August 11th, 2013 at 8:22 am
  76. Lisa Says:

    Hi. We have just stripped out lounge of woodchip back to the original coat of paint over the plaster. We have tried hanging lining paper but it is just coming straight off. We have put a layer if paste on first as a skim coat and then soaked the paper but 24 hours later and it’s hanging off the walls. It’s an 1850’s house not sure how to proceed? Thanks

    Date posted : August 24th, 2013 at 2:42 am
  77. Adrian Says:


    Are you sure the paste is mixed correctly, to thin and runny will mean a weak mix, lining paper is fairly heavy so needs a good paste, is it a good quality paste, are the walls painted in a gloss paint, if they are you need to rub them down to remove the shine first. Ensure the lining paper is soaked for long enough, 10 minutes is an average before hanging.

    Date posted : August 25th, 2013 at 7:45 am
  78. Tash Says:

    I would like to know if i can hang paste the wall wallpaper on top of lining paper painted with silk paint? The lining paper was hung around 8 years ago and still intact.

    Also is it necessary to paste the wall or can i still paste the paste the wall wallpaper?


    Date posted : August 28th, 2013 at 8:24 pm
  79. Adrian Says:


    Yes you can wallpaper over silk painted lining paper, it may take time for the wallpaper to dry as the silk emulsion will hold back the moisture, just make sure the paper is well soaked otherwise you may get bubbles in the wallpaper.
    I typically paste the wallpaper of ‘paste the wall’ wallpapers, but it is personal preference really.

    Date posted : August 29th, 2013 at 7:32 am
  80. Sal Says:

    How do you know which lining paper to use? We’ve just stripped the walls on our landing and some parts the plaster is fine, others have marks where the previous owners went a little overboard with a wallpaper scraper and scraped the plaster. I’m unsure which grade to use. We plan to emulsion the walls afterwards.

    Also is lining paper harder to put up than wallpaper? I’ve seen several posts where people have problems with bubbles/lifting. I’m pretty good with wallpaper but have never put up lining paper before. Thanks in advance.

    Date posted : October 4th, 2013 at 7:37 am
  81. Adrian Says:


    I normally use 1400 gauge lining paper, it is normally OK for most jobs. Could you prep the walls and not line them? This is normally best is possible. Lining paper is the same as wallpaper to put up, in my opinion. Bubbling and lifting is often caused by bad or no prep work or not enough paste of the lining paper.

    Date posted : October 5th, 2013 at 3:14 pm
  82. Ian Says:

    I, have a couple of air pockets behind the thermal-lining paper(on the window reveal) I have put on, I cant paste behind them, do I need to seal around the window to stop the air getting behind ? Or should I leave the edge unsealed? Kind regards Ian

    Date posted : October 26th, 2013 at 9:55 am
  83. Adrian Says:

    To deal with the bubbles, you can cut the liner with a sharp knife and use a small brush to get paste in behind it, then stick it down.
    As for sealing the edge, it is personal choice really, you can but don’t have to.

    Date posted : October 28th, 2013 at 7:34 am
  84. Jonny Says:

    I’ve used wallrock fibre liner to line some walls, it’s looks perfect through the day but I’ve got some wall lights and at night you can see the paint edges underneath. Will double lining these get rid of them?

    Thanks jonny

    Date posted : November 19th, 2013 at 6:31 am
  85. Adrian Says:


    I assume you prepared the walls, filled and rubbend them down? You can put a second layer of liner on the walls. Maybe worth cross lining to avoid the joints being on top of each other, so if you put the liner up vertically, put the second layer horizontally.

    Date posted : November 20th, 2013 at 4:27 pm
  86. Di Says:

    We live in an ex show home, wallpapered from top to bottom, which was great until we discovered that the builders had never skimmed the walls below the paper!
    Now, 10 years later, we have come to redecorate, every time we take off a piece of wallpaper it strips some of the board underneath, leaving a very uneven surface.
    I would love to repaper, but where should I start? We have tried lining paper, but the torn off strip marks show through. Could I just paint over the existing wallpaper and the paper over it? Or do I need to completely replays yet?

    Date posted : December 8th, 2013 at 9:47 am
  87. Adrian Says:


    You could have the walls skimmed but this obviously adds to the cost.
    You could try filling and then lining the walls, you can paint over the existing wallpaper if it is on good condition and stuck well.

    Date posted : December 10th, 2013 at 9:31 am
  88. John Bidmead Says:

    I have just stripped off some good quality vinyl paper leaving its backing paper on the wall. Can I paper directly over the this backing paper or should that be removed also. The backing paper is secure to the walls and could it act as a lining paper.

    Date posted : February 22nd, 2014 at 10:01 pm
  89. Adrian Says:


    If you are sure the backing paper is secure then you can paper over it, I normally remove the backing paper as it is for clients. You could try one wall first to ensure you aren#t going to have any problems.

    Date posted : February 23rd, 2014 at 8:15 am
  90. Jo Says:

    We are decorating a lounge/living room and have stripped off all the old wallpaper only to reveal patterned stained plaster from previous wallpapers, we would love to paint the walls. We have had many opinions on what to do ie sand them down then use lining paper then paint, just sand down, one coat of emulsion to see if any stains come through then re-sand until nothing shows then paint or skim the walls which we can’t afford. Would you see the lines of the paper if they were painted. Your help would be appreciated

    Date posted : February 23rd, 2014 at 12:37 pm
  91. Adrian Says:


    It is hard to comment not seeing the problem, but.
    I would try some cheap white emulsion on the walls first, to see what happens, if it is OK, simply paint the walls.
    If that doesn’t work it no matter what you do the stain will come through, so if you lined the walls the stain could bleed through, in which case a stain stop / oil based paint would need to be applied to stop the stain from coming through.

    Date posted : February 27th, 2014 at 12:15 pm
  92. Jo Says:

    Thank you much appreciated

    Date posted : February 27th, 2014 at 5:25 pm
  93. Willem Krusen Says:

    It is always better to take expert advice for painting techniques, especially when you use lining paper. The ratio paste, paper differs greatly for different types of houses, it’s wiser to pay a consultant than take independent decisions.

    Date posted : March 19th, 2014 at 1:11 pm
  94. francessca Says:


    We moved in to our house around 8 months ago, its 1940’s, we was going to get the bedroom re-plastered however the money that was put aside now has to be used on our car which failed its mot, but our baby is due in 7 weeks so really need to do something with the room. The plastering is quite poor and uneven in places especially where a fire place has been taken out. there are also some cracks and holes from radiators ect which will need filling and sanding prior to us doing anything, But i was wondering which you would recommend if lining the walls first and then hanging wallpaper over? Obviously we would have had the walls either re-plastered or skimmed but our finances wont allow that now so I was wondering what I better option would be?


    Date posted : April 13th, 2014 at 9:29 am
  95. Adrian Says:


    As the budget is tight it is worth thinking about how much you want or can spend, if this is a nursery or a childs bedroom is it worth paying out for lining paper and then wallpaper, maybe emulsion the walls and a feature wall with wallpaper?, lets face it, kids like to stick things in and on the wall and even draw on them!! If this is a nursery, again how many years until the baby doesn’t want cute wallpaper with elephants (or whatever is popular now) on the walls?

    If this is your bedroom them yes I would line the walls first before papering, if it was a kids bedroom or nursery I may save the money and time and not line. Maybe in time finances will improve and you could re-plaster in a few years when you re-decorate?

    Spending a little time filling and smoothing out the cracks, bumps and holes may be time well spent, and filler is cheap 🙂

    Congratulation on your pending birth 🙂

    Date posted : April 14th, 2014 at 2:48 pm
  96. Jack Says:

    Hi. I have just bought my first house and have stripped all walls of old paper but am unsure of whether I should:

    skim the walls before putting paper up OR just put up paper after filling /sanding over imperfections

    There are areas of all walls which I am suspicious will show through lining paper (e.g. where the dado rail once was-now removed).

    The walls are also uneven in some areas, would lining paper Alone be a big mistake on these walls?
    Thanks in advance.

    Date posted : April 13th, 2014 at 7:57 pm
  97. Adrian Says:


    In an ideal world having skimmed walls is perfect, but this can cost, if you can afford it I say go for it, however, spending time sanding, filling and feathering out and then line the walls before papering could be a good bet and could save you some money if you have the time to do good preparation.
    Really is is down to personal choice and finances.

    Date posted : April 14th, 2014 at 2:51 pm
  98. sean moruzzi Says:

    My son has bought a house that has some kind of bubble embossed lining paper on it, which has then been given a coat of red gloss paint!
    We have tried to use b and q 1200 lining paper over it but it does not stick well to the gloss surface and the emboss shows through.
    Should we try heavier duty lining paper or try and strip it, if so how?

    Date posted : May 7th, 2014 at 10:52 am
  99. Adrian Says:


    Sounds like it is a blown vinyl or Anaglypta paper that has been glossed over. Don’t waste time and money trying to cover it over, take it all off and start again.

    Strip the paper and decide if you want to use lining paper or just fill and paint the walls, or maybe wallpaper.
    To strip the paper have a read of my blog post, how to strip wallpaper.

    Date posted : May 7th, 2014 at 3:41 pm
  100. Roy Hamdy Says:

    I have stripped off the old waper, and filled in the pin holes, gashes, scrapes, picture screw holes and lumps knocked out over time from accidentally banging into the walls when moving furniture about. The plan is to line and then paint with emulsion. Problem: Using usual (DIY) fillers, pressed hard, and later when sanding, smoothed it down reasonably well, but in parts, eroded the surrounding sound plaster slightly, (I know, sloppy!). What wallpaper grade would you suggest for a smooth enough surface to avoid ‘shadowing’ that can occur when artificial lamp light hits the very slightly ‘higher’ parts.’ and these shadows can be at any angle, depending on the location of the lamp. I would have thought the thicker the better, but from what I gather from looking at replies above, about 1200 would meet the task, or am I mistaken?. Would appreciate advice. Would love to strip off all plaster, and renew entirely, but costs preclude, I’m afraid. Thanks. Regards, Roy. PS, concerned about that bit mentioned in a reply, re asbestos in old plaster, as my sloppy work may have sanded asbestos containing plaster. Is there a way of telling / identifying visually if plaster contains asbestos, though I guess not?

    Date posted : May 9th, 2014 at 11:49 am
  101. Adrian Says:


    The plaster maybe the old style plaster called seraphite, if it is a grey colour, which is grainy and was put over sand and cement render, this deteriorates over time and can leave rough areas when rubbed down. If you finish rubbing the filler down, emulsion them with a cheap white emulsion to ‘seal’ the plaster then you can see the bad areas, skim fill them and rub them down.

    Typically I use 1200 – 1400 gauge lining paper. This should leave you with a good base to emulsion over. As I always say, lining paper isn’t a magic cure for bad walls, it is all in the preparation, after all lining paper is only paper, best to spend the time getting the wall correct first before lining than be disappointed afterwards as the preparation wasn’t enough.

    With regards to the as asbestos mention in the comment above it was talking about artex on the ceiling and walls, not plaster.
    Hope that helps.

    Date posted : May 9th, 2014 at 2:31 pm
  102. Biz Liz Says:

    Ive painted over a silk emulsioned papered wall with matt emulsion (3 coats) then I put 3 lots of lining paper on top (thinking it would help the top paper to stick properly…. Well ive just put 2 drops of the top paper on and noticed that the.lining paper is coming away from the wall in big patches. Do I rip it all off and start again or what ?? PLEASE HELP.

    Date posted : May 12th, 2014 at 5:15 pm
  103. Adrian Says:

    @Biz Liz

    I assume everything was left to dry out fully, the only things I can think of is there wasn’t enough paste on the lining paper and the moisture from the wallpaper is lifting it off. As I can’t see the issue myself the only advice I can give really is take it off and start from scratch, sorry not good news.

    Date posted : May 17th, 2014 at 3:43 pm
  104. steve Says:

    Hi. I have skimmed over my walls in a 1900 house. The plaster looks pretty smooth, but my question is do I line the walls or just emulsion them?. Also should I seal the plaster with diluted size or mist coat the walls before papering.

    Date posted : June 5th, 2014 at 4:15 pm
  105. Adrian Says:


    If the walls are in good condition, there is no need to line them unless the wallpaper manufacturer recommends you to do so first. New plaster should be sized prior to wallpapering. You could mist coat if you prefer.

    Date posted : June 7th, 2014 at 4:00 pm
  106. phil Says:

    i found it great simple to use thank you

    Date posted : June 9th, 2014 at 6:55 pm
  107. dawn Says:

    i used textured paint on my walls in the living room but now want wallpaper could i use lining paper before i paper thanx

    Date posted : June 11th, 2014 at 7:34 pm
  108. Adrian Says:


    It all depends on how textured the walls are and the type of wallpaper you intend to hang. Lining paper may not cover the texture on the walls.

    Date posted : June 12th, 2014 at 10:46 am
  109. Pete Says:

    What is the thickness, in millimetres, is 2000 grade lining paper? I have an area of about 100mm x 2.3m to build out by about 4mm before papering and I want to use the minimum amount of strips of lining paper to achieve this. If the thickness is in microns, how many make up 1mm? Thanks.

    Date posted : June 20th, 2014 at 11:13 am
  110. Adrian Says:


    It is best to ask the manufacturer for exact thickness

    Date posted : June 21st, 2014 at 2:21 pm
  111. Carie Says:

    I am building a new home. We want smooth walls, no texture. My builder advises the cost would be too high (level 5). I am wondering if we could use wall liner over the drywall and then paint for a smooth more cost friendly approach.

    Date posted : July 4th, 2014 at 3:38 pm
  112. Adrian Says:


    Depending on how well the drywall is jointed you maybe able to simply paint over the drywall, but yes as an alternative wall liner / lining paper first then paint should be fine.

    Date posted : July 6th, 2014 at 10:24 am
  113. Pat Pearson Says:

    I like plain walls but think having then skimmed looks to cold so I have decided to have paper instead. My son has used linning paper that is not completely smooth, it is ever so slightly textured. He insists that it is linning paper not a textured wallpaper. Do you know where I can buy it from.

    Date posted : August 11th, 2014 at 3:19 pm
  114. Adrian Says:


    There are many brands of lining paper from lots of manufactures, I know some of the DIY sheds do their own brand that has a slight texture and a white surface.

    Date posted : August 13th, 2014 at 12:35 pm
  115. Gemma Says:

    Hi, the people who lived here before me let their children decorate their own bedroom walls with really thick paint!(god knows why?!) Anyway, i have tried, sanding it down, painting and wallpapering over it but the shapes still show through, will lining paper help to cover it? If so what thickness do you suggest?

    Date posted : August 17th, 2014 at 5:44 pm
  116. Adrian Says:


    Lining paper may help cover it, but not seeing it myself can only go on what you have told me. I normally use 1400 gauge lining paper but 2000 gauge being thicker maybe more sufficient. Alternatively you could line the walls with say 1200 gauge, then crossline the walls again with 1200 gauge.

    Cross lining and lining

    Date posted : August 23rd, 2014 at 4:39 pm
  117. Tommy Says:

    Hi Adrian,

    I have removed a dado rail from the walls in my hallway and stairs. I sanded off any glue and used some gyproc to fill in the holes thinking I was being very clever. I have unfortunately not made a great job of this preparation. I was going to put up lining paper anyway knowing that I wouldn’t be perfect at skimming over any bits that needed done but it’s worse than I imagined. The plastered bits are showing through the paper as rough lumps and bumps. Do I start the whole thing again, take the paper off only and just sand it more or can I put more lining paper up?


    Date posted : August 19th, 2014 at 5:17 am
  118. Adrian Says:


    Lining paper is like any either paper, it will not hide every lump and bump, so sad to say, preparation is key. Get this done right before going any further, get it wrong and you’ll notice it forever. So my advise would be get the walls prepared well before doing anything else.

    Decorating and preparation

    Date posted : August 23rd, 2014 at 4:43 pm
  119. maggie Says:

    Could you paint a mural on heavy grade lining paper and paste the wall or use a spray adhesive on wall to apply the paper to the wall?

    Date posted : August 25th, 2014 at 9:07 pm
  120. Adrian Says:

    Yes, you should be able to put a mural on lining paper. Follow manufacturer’s instructions for paste and hanging and there shouldn’t be any problems.

    Date posted : August 30th, 2014 at 4:24 pm
  121. joanne Says:

    prevaricating, sitting in the mess as i contemplate the lumpy walls seriously thinking of just slapping on a coat of emulsion. Is lining paper for the terminally poor decorator

    Date posted : September 18th, 2014 at 2:07 pm
  122. Adrian Says:


    There isn’t any point in hanging lining paper and going to that extra expense and time if the walls are that bad or the preparation isn’t done correctly. Lining paper will only give a good sound base to either paper over or paint over, it isn’t a miracle cure for bad plaster.

    Best spend extra time doing the prep before emulsioning 🙂

    Date posted : September 20th, 2014 at 4:35 pm
  123. Pete Says:

    Hi, re my question 20th June, I used some 4mm wood form B&Q instead of many strips of lining paper and it worked out fine, thanks for your help.

    I now want to use 1400 grade lining paper on a ceiling, which I will emulsion afterwards. As the instructions that came with the paper don’t say what ratio of water/paste to use, what would you advise to compare it with, Washable & Vinyl (5.5l water per sachet), Textured & Blown Vinyls and Embossed (both these 4.5l water per sachet) or Heavily Embossed (4l water per sachet)? Thank you.



    Date posted : October 6th, 2014 at 3:50 pm
  124. Adrian Says:


    Glad you managed to find a solution for your first question. I would go for 4l water per sachet, if you find this too thick, add a little more water until a creamy consistency.

    Date posted : October 8th, 2014 at 2:26 pm
  125. Natasha Says:

    I have a porch that has painted brick walls and i would like to wallpaper this area. Would any thickness of lining paper actually help or is the only way to replaster? Thanks Natasha

    Date posted : October 7th, 2014 at 4:53 pm
  126. Adrian Says:


    Sadly, lining paper wouldn’t be an ideal solution for this, you could either as you say have it plastered, or stick some thin plasterboard or plywood over the brick first?

    Date posted : October 8th, 2014 at 2:28 pm
  127. Andrew Watson Says:

    Hello Adrian,

    We have just removed old woodchip wallpaper from our lounge that’s been on 20 years, surprisingly the plaster underneath is a top layer of old plaster and bottom half must have been done before papering, it’s all sound with only hairline cracks and holes from picture hooks, however there is a orange tint to the top plaster which I believe is the old paste.

    I would like just to paint the walls with a pollycell 3 in 1 base coat to even out the surface then 2 -3 coats of good emulsion, a decorator said to wash the walls with Sugar soap, then mix a 5 to 1 mix of PVA glue and paint that on, then flatten it with 100 grade sandpaper then do a primer coat of Matt emulsion then normal 2-3 coats of emulsion.

    Which do you think is better? The PVA method or the pollycell 3 in 1 base coat? Or do you think it would be better just to line it and then paint? My papering skills are not the best when it comes to joints!
    Thank you in advance

    Date posted : October 13th, 2014 at 11:49 am
  128. Adrian Says:


    It is hard for me to say without actually seeing the walls, I am not a big fan of PVA on the walls as if it is mixed too strong it sits on the surface of the wall rather than soaks in, and can peel off at a later date. So if you go this route ensure not to mix the PVA too strong.

    The basecoat sounds fine to me, I would probably mist coat the walls with an emulsion then paint if all OK, but basecoat is fine too.

    If you are not confident with papering, then leave well alone and spend that extra time preparing the walls for emulsion.

    Date posted : October 14th, 2014 at 5:02 pm
  129. Linda Says:


    I have stripped the wallpaper from my front bedroom of an victorian house circa 1900
    The walls are uneven with pink grainy plaster and patched white filler all over and I think where we held the steamer over the wall for two long to remove the paper has made plaster crumble off leaving dark chocolate plaster underneath. The wall is dry no damp but when I tap all over there are several blown areas. There are also several hairline cracks.

    I have had quotes for skimming but ripple say I would be better taking all the plaster off to brick, dry lining and skim over. I’m keen to do this over exterior wall to help insulate the room but is this necessary to take plaster to brick? Would just skimming be ok? Is it ok to use plaster board in victorian house? I have also considered lining paper my worry being if it is just skimmed over will it eventually start to recrack? Thanks

    Date posted : October 25th, 2014 at 5:16 am
  130. Adrian Says:


    Personally I prefer to take it back to brick, that way you know it is all sound and prevent possible issues later on.

    Yes I can’t see any reason for not using plasterboard.

    Date posted : October 31st, 2014 at 4:00 pm
  131. glynn Says:

    I have artex on three walls in my living room, one wall looks worse than the rest
    What thickness should I use before I wallpaper.

    Date posted : November 8th, 2014 at 4:19 pm
  132. Adrian Says:


    I wouldn’t hang lining paper over artex as it is too textured.
    It is best to either remove it or plaster over it for a smooth finish, you obviously wouldn’t then need to hang lining paper over the new plaster.

    Date posted : November 11th, 2014 at 12:29 pm
  133. Kate Says:

    Hi,I have just moved into a house and on the ceiling in the living room they have anaglypt bubble paper,my plasterer advisede not to scrape it off as we don’t know what’s underneath it and good be very costly.where the old lights have been in the centre of the rooms there are breakages in the paper…can we line the whole ceiling with plain lining paper,as we don’t really want to keep the bubble effect anyway? If so what one shall we use so you won’t see the bubbles?


    Date posted : November 9th, 2014 at 11:53 am
  134. Adrian Says:


    To be honest, I’m not sure I would line over old paper that could of been there for years and could come down if you stick another layer of paper over it. The bubble paper could still show through and could create a real headache if it pulls the paper of the ceiling.

    My advice would be to remove the old paper, fill any cracks and the line the ceiling. I know this is opposite to what your plasterer has said and he has seen the ceiling, but this would be my opinion.

    Date posted : November 11th, 2014 at 12:36 pm
  135. Ian Says:

    Hi Adrian,

    Great site with some great tips thanks.
    Our kitchen is tiled with semi gloss tiles from the 1970’s. and in the past I have used polystyrene liner hung vertically as a base to wallpaper over with some success, though after a year or so it begins to peel away. The time has come again to decorate and was wondering if I might have more success with a heavier grade lining paper hung horizontally.

    Date posted : November 15th, 2014 at 9:39 am
  136. Adrian Says:


    If I understand you correctly you are putting polystyrene liner and then lining paper over tiles? The heavier the paper the more chance of it coming off as it may lift the polystyrene liner I would think. If you just use lining paper I’m not sure if the grout lines will show?

    Date posted : November 15th, 2014 at 3:20 pm
  137. Lucy Says:

    Hi Adrian. We have had a builder/decorator come round to give a quote and some advice for decorating our hall and landing. He specialises in doing up tenanted properties but my dad knows him and which is why we’ve got in contact.

    He suggested using vinyl lining paper for the walls. We want to paint over it. Can I just check that vinyl lining paper won’t leave a plasticy finish?

    He also recommended not tiling our downstairs loo floor as it’s on top of floorboards and he thinks it would feel like the adhesive is cracking. We would still like it tiled as his suggestion was to put lino down which is really not the look we are going for.

    That just made me worry that the look of the vinyl lining paper might also not be what we’re looking for. But I dont know anything about lining paper.

    Do you think it’s ok to tile over a wooden floor and just use thick adhesive?

    Thanks in advance for any pointers!


    Date posted : November 30th, 2014 at 10:04 am
  138. Adrian Says:


    I use ordinary lining paper, never used vinyl lining paper, I have used a blown vinyl and then painted over it without any issues. If the lining paper has a vinyl finish can it be overpainted or is it meant for wallpapering over only? If it can be painted over, a matt emulsion would not leave a vinyl or shiny finish I wouldn’tof thought.
    As for tiling over floorboards, he is right, each board may move and either crack the tiles or become loose in time, the way around it could be to lay plywood on floor first then tile that.

    Date posted : December 4th, 2014 at 11:34 am
  139. Alan Says:

    We have an old stone walled house and decorating a bedroom would like to insulate the walls with possibly thermal liner. we would like to put on top of the liner a blown vinyl anaglypta but have been told that the edges of the thermal liner may lift because the vinyl stretches and shrinks.
    Is this correct? What do you advise?

    Date posted : December 4th, 2014 at 9:11 pm
  140. Adrian Says:


    I haven’t used thermal liner so best ask manufactures advice to be 100% sure but the liner can be papered over so not sure why blown vinyl would be an issue.

    Date posted : December 8th, 2014 at 3:03 pm
  141. sam jones Says:

    Hello I today papered over lining paper and it has bulged and bubbled will it go back down as it dries
    Thank you

    Date posted : December 5th, 2014 at 3:34 pm
  142. Adrian Says:


    Leave it for 24 hours to see if it goes back when it dries. Sometimes the lining paper can bubble from the dampness of the wallpaper but often tightens up again when dry.

    Top tip: next time when you haveinex the walls, allow to dry then apply some paste to lining paper, this not only give extra adhesion when papering but also will allow you to see any bubbling eye before wallpapering over it and a chance to resolve any issues first.
    Let us know how it goes!!

    Date posted : December 5th, 2014 at 9:15 pm
  143. Rachael Says:

    We have recently moved into a 1930’s house and yesterday and today my husband and I started stripping our bedroom walls wallpaper. I say wallpaper it’s very heavily textured almost has an artex look to it. I have now gone into panic mode as having googled removing textured wallpaper there have been some mentions of asbestos if the wallpaper is over 20 years old (by the condition of it I would say it certainly is. Have you heard of this and should I get it tested before we strip any more (were halfway through already!)

    Date posted : January 6th, 2015 at 12:59 am
  144. Adrian Says:


    I have not come across asbestos in wallpaper before. Were the sites UK or US that mentioned it? I would assume that it the paper is well soaked before removing the wallpaper, the fibres, if there are any, wouldn’t float around. But if you are concerned phone local council and ask to speak to someone about asbestos, they should be able to help and advice and test if they think it is required.

    Let us know how you get on.

    Date posted : January 6th, 2015 at 11:04 am
  145. Lizzy Says:

    Hi Adrian
    Thanks for a brilliant site so helpful. I think I have done something really daft and not sure how to sort it. I have been wallpapering for a number of years and always got good results – however moved into 30s house and have just finished lounge – stripped wallpaper, sized walls and hung lining paper ready for painting. Within about 24 to 48 hours after painting the paster behind some of the seems has actually lifted off the walls making the seems bulge and when pressed I can definitely feel loose plaster behind them. Don’t have any money to get someone in to sort this so any advice would be so helpful. Thanks Lizzy

    Date posted : January 8th, 2015 at 12:00 pm
  146. Adrian Says:


    Glad you like the site 🙂

    I have had this problem myself, the plaster was so bad the lining paper lifted it off as the paper dried, very annoying and only two ways to solve it really.

    1. Remove the lining paper where it has lifted the plaster, remove loose plaster and fill, re-ling walls, allow to fully dry to see if it reoccurs.
    2. remove lining paper and loose plaster and have walls replastered (not the cheapest option).

    Date posted : January 8th, 2015 at 2:11 pm
  147. Lizzy Says:

    Thank you – trying first option

    What is the best wall filler that you can recommend? Lizzy

    Date posted : January 8th, 2015 at 5:41 pm
  148. Adrian Says:


    I use a general purpose filler such as polyfiler or tetrion.

    Date posted : January 8th, 2015 at 6:55 pm
  149. Lesley Says:

    Hi Adrian I have stripped wood chip paper from my hall walls, it came off quite easily but underneath it has left patches of paint (which was painted originally straight onto the plaster). Some of the paint comes off, but some is almost impossible to remove without leaving gouge marks(!) so it is very patchy. Can I use lining paper to go over this paint (and then paint on the lining paper) and if so, what grade – or will I have to bite the bullet and get the paint off (how would I do this?). Or will I have to get a plasterer in (I hadn’t budgeted for this cost and as it is a hallway I imagine it would be quite expensive!). Thanks for any advice.

    Date posted : January 8th, 2015 at 8:48 pm
  150. Adrian Says:


    Scrape any loose flaking paint off, then apply a thin skim of filler or similar, such as smoothover. then you may be able to paint directly over that, if not a 1200 or 1400 gauge lining paper then emulsion.

    Date posted : January 9th, 2015 at 2:12 pm
  151. Sandy Says:

    I have striped old wallpaper from my walls…which I papered about 20 years ago…and I lined the walls before wallpapering. My problem is…the lining is stuck very well…but when I put the new wallpaper on it…its like it sucks all the paste up and dries up so fast, that the seams don’t want to stick. I am using pre pasted wallpaper, just as I did before…I can’t even move the wallpaper around on the liner to line up the pattern….I have done right much papering but have never experienced this problem before…..would appreciate any help on this matter….Thanks

    Date posted : January 20th, 2015 at 2:30 am
  152. Adrian Says:


    I find that the pre pasted papers do not have much in the way of paste on them, so I always mix up paste and apply to paper before hanging, this will allow you to move it and should help stick down the edges also. If the seams don’t stick well,t= try a seam roller if you haven’t done so already.

    Date posted : January 20th, 2015 at 2:54 pm
  153. Peter Says:

    Hi Adrian,

    Interesting site. I have a ceiling to line and paint. The ceiling is generally in good condition except for a large water stain (fully dried out). Do you think the ceiling will need sealing before lining it? Or will the lining hold back the water stain?

    Thanx in advance


    Date posted : January 29th, 2015 at 3:59 pm
  154. Adrian Says:


    You need to deal with the stain first, otherwise it will come through the lining paper and subsequent coats of emulsion.

    Have a read here: How to deal with water stains.

    Date posted : January 29th, 2015 at 4:48 pm
  155. Angela Says:

    Hi Adrian
    I love this site, its so helpful!
    Im in an old house with concrete floors, and on one of the interior walls which has been lined and emulsion painted there a strip of ‘nobbly bits’ about 5cm deep and about 0.5m from skirting showing through the paper along the whole length of the wall. Could these be salt crystals from the plaster maybe? and do you think they might just sand off once i get the painted paper off? (I did wonder if I could try sanding the paper to remove them as removing painted lining paper might pull off all the plaster as well?)
    Any advice would be much appreciated, thanks

    Date posted : January 29th, 2015 at 5:54 pm
  156. Adrian Says:


    Yes this could be salt crystals, does the wall suffer from damp problems?

    I don’t think sanding the paper will achieve anything as to get rid of the bumps you will end up sanding through the paper.

    My advice is remove the paper and see what the issue is, if it is a damp issue you need to resolve this before papering, painting or hanging lining paper otherwise the problem will keep on recurring.

    Date posted : January 31st, 2015 at 2:06 pm
  157. Roxanne Says:

    Hi Adrian,

    I have never papered before and was wondering if you could come and paper my flat for me lol jokes.

    Date posted : January 29th, 2015 at 11:49 pm
  158. Adrian Says:


    I’m sure you will do fine 🙂

    Take a look at these posts:

    How to wallpaper

    Good luck

    Date posted : January 31st, 2015 at 2:08 pm
  159. Kirsty Says:

    I have stripped the wallpaper off in my house and the lining paper! When I’ve taken the lining paper off there is like an orange patchy paint underneath ! Should I also take this off? Can I then paint on top or do I need to prep the walls in some way?
    Thank you

    Date posted : February 13th, 2015 at 10:47 pm
  160. Adrian Says:


    You should prep the walls first, filling any holes etc. If the patchy paint shows rough edges either you can scrape it off if possible or fill but I would guess these is to much to fill. You could use a smoothover product. Alternatively you could prep the walls a line them again.

    Useful links:
    How to fill holes and cracks
    Decorating and preparation

    Date posted : February 14th, 2015 at 1:54 pm
  161. Annie Says:

    We have a new plastered area of wall in our kitchen where we had a door bricked up, we are planning to use lining paper before painting to match with the rest of the room. The area we’ll be papering has some new plaster and some old plaster. Can you suggest the best way to prep the wall before hanging the lining paper? I’m confused about mist coats vs. sizing and how long we need to leave things to dry between steps.

    Date posted : March 22nd, 2015 at 5:30 pm
  162. Adrian Says:


    First things first is to ensure all surfaces are level. If the doorway is plastered and not the whole wall there maybe an edge around it depending on how good plastering is. If this is the case use filler to feather out and edges. The rub down smooth and level.

    As you are lining the wall you can size it using wallpaper paste. Allow to dry. (A few hours)

    Then hang lining paper, allow to dry 12-24 hours before painting.

    If you were going to paint wall rather than line, then same prep and then a mist coat to seal new plaster before painting

    Date posted : March 22nd, 2015 at 6:44 pm
  163. cott Says:

    1700 mav lining paper, left 7 min to a good 10 mins,before hanging, all brushed flat, using a walwiz, pasted with a roller and a mix of 4.5 l of water to a pack of solvite, sized wall it was like a matt emulsion, and i did some filling prior, loads of horizonal bubbles on one wall, 3 days later, the rest ok, and ive hung loads perfect before, ? cheers also is the less chance of bubbles with 1400 grade cheers

    Date posted : April 4th, 2015 at 1:16 pm
  164. Adrian Says:


    If the bubbles are in a line I can only guess there was something underneath the paper that caused it to bubble, maybe some oil based paint that stopped the adhesive soaking in and the paper dried with a bubble? I would take a very sharp knife and cut a small slit in the paper, lift it and see if you can see the issue.

    As for the 1700 and 1400 lining paper bubbling, there shouldn’t be any difference if paper is well soaked and stuck well.

    Date posted : April 4th, 2015 at 3:58 pm
  165. KATH Says:

    Have just had interior walls of the house painted by professional decorators. All rooms painted with Dulux Matt finish are fine including embossed wallpaper. The hall stairs and landing have been painted with VALSPAR Matt Paint & Primer In One and the colour was mixed to one I chose from their colour chart. After two coats of paint the walls looked a mess some areas are matt, rough and very uneven and other areas are silk finish in appearance. I bought more paint from B & Q and had a further coat applied. The appearance is no better and after almost two weeks ther is still a strong odour from the paint. I have contacted the manufacturer/supplier Valspar UK who are very reluctant to send a representative out to inspect the finish of the paint. They have asked I take pictures and forward them on for their inspection and advise they have checked the batch and code of the paint and find there are no issues with the product. They have also said the matt/silk effect could be due to the paper to which it was applied being slightly embossed. What would be your opinion to their response.
    ( I have since found numerous complaints on a consumer affairs on-line forum from customers who have experienced similar problems )

    Date posted : April 12th, 2015 at 6:12 pm
  166. Adrian Says:


    I haven’t used Valspar so can not really comment.

    Date posted : April 17th, 2015 at 4:14 pm
  167. Chris Says:

    I’m about to have my room decorated and have decided to put up some super fresco rocco grey paper , should I put up linning paper first and if so what thickness should I use , the room is very big and not that warm

    Date posted : April 14th, 2015 at 5:15 pm
  168. Adrian Says:


    Without seeing the walls it is a job to say.
    I usually use 1400 grade lining paper. If you want to keep heat in, look at a thermal liner.

    Date posted : April 17th, 2015 at 3:00 pm
  169. Rebecca Says:


    We have just had all the artex plastered over in the living room and it looks brilliant. However We now want the bedroom doing, which I originally thought I could put up with. As it caused such a mess having the living room done we would have to move all the bedroom furniture out if we decided to plaster over. Because the artex in the bedroom is a different pattern and not as thick could we paper over it with thick lining paper and then paint. We also have coving so this wouldn’t get affected if we did that.

    Many thanks

    Date posted : May 7th, 2015 at 6:56 pm
  170. Adrian Says:


    It is hard to comment as I haven’t seen the thickness of the artex, but as a general rule I wouldn’t paper over artex. The wallpaper adhesive will only stick on the ‘high’ spots and the lining paper could easily lift.

    Date posted : May 8th, 2015 at 1:59 pm
  171. Rose Says:


    I need some advise on painting. I am in the process of redecorating a bedroom and the ceiling has been painted blood red by the former owner. What would be the best paint to use in order to remove all traces of red? I intend on painting it white/cream?


    Date posted : May 20th, 2015 at 1:14 pm
  172. Adrian Says:


    Some strong colours can be hard to get rid of, blood red being one of them. I typically go over it with a white emulsion before painting with the final colour, but as you say you may be going for a white or cream, you could simply give it a couple of white coats then your normal one or two, or you can buy an obliterating paint this has a high pigment level and great opacity. A quick search will give you a list of retailers.

    Hope that helps, let us know how it goes.

    Date posted : May 20th, 2015 at 2:16 pm
  173. Paul Says:

    The last time I papered, in a number of places a gap appeared between the papered joints, but only on the bottom two feet or so. I am looking to do it again and have checked the walls and they appear to be slightly bowed. I thought it may have been the paper shrinking, but now I am not so sure. Can you recommend a way of papering to prevent recurrence as I don’t want to have the walls replastered. Many thanks

    Date posted : May 30th, 2015 at 10:04 am
  174. Adrian Says:


    Lining paper can shrink on the joints, it even says so on the labels. As they suggest and as I do, if this happens use some fine filler to fill the joints before painting over. I doubt bowed walls would cause that much shrinkage, ensure the lengths are hung plumb straight.

    The only other suggestion is don’t over work the joints as this can stretch the paper and it could shrink as it dries out.

    Date posted : May 30th, 2015 at 2:39 pm
  175. Liz coombs Says:

    Can I put lining paper on a wall that has a flat paint

    Date posted : June 9th, 2015 at 6:37 pm
  176. Adrian Says:


    As long as the paint is sound, yes you can.

    Date posted : June 9th, 2015 at 6:55 pm
  177. Verity Says:

    Hi Adrian,

    I am in the middle of decorating my daughters nursery in a victorian property. I have removed all the wallpaper which revealed different coloured gypsum plasterwork underneath. A lot of the plaster has come away, leaving large holes which I am filling and sanding down. Our house has subsidence and it has been suggested that I use a good lining paper instead of paying for a plaster skim (which may crack due to the subsidence). I was told lining paper can be applied with a minute gap between each section, which I should then fill carefully with filler. Apparently this will prevent the wallpaper puckering if there is any further movement. Please could you advise which filler I should use for such a fine job and what grade lining paper – 1400? Also do I need to prep the old plaster walls with anything before I start?

    Date posted : June 30th, 2015 at 10:04 pm
  178. Adrian Says:


    Yes 1400 grade is what I mostly use, and should be OK for the job you are doing. Once you have prepared the walls I would ‘size’ them with some watered down wallpaper paste to help seal the filler and bare plaster etc.
    You can leave a small gap and fill it using a fine surface filler and lightly rubbing it down when dry. You don’t say if you are painting or papering over the lining paper, if you are papering over the lining you don’t have to fill the gaps. Hope that helps.

    Date posted : July 2nd, 2015 at 2:06 pm
  179. Helen Says:

    Hi, we are currently renovating our new house which was last decorated in the 60s/70s. There is a section of bedroom wall that has been papered with very low grade lining paper and painted over with what looks like kitchen/bathroom waterproof paint. I have tried scoring the paper in large and small sections and steaming it with wallpaper stripper but it is incredibly difficult to remove as the steam moisture doesn’t penetrate into the paper. The lining paper is so thin that I can’t get purchase to pull at it dry or with a scraper. Have you got any tips about removing it, thanks?

    Date posted : July 26th, 2015 at 8:36 pm
  180. Adrian Says:


    Sadly there is no easy way. Be careful with the steamer otherwise you may start blowing the plaster off the wall.
    I normally use a bucket of water and a brush. Soak the wall, leave it a while then dial it again, then have a cuppa and then soak it again. Then try removing it. It will be a slow process but a water proof type paint can hold the water from soaking in. So you may only be able to do small areas at a time. Best of luck!!

    Date posted : July 26th, 2015 at 9:36 pm
  181. Dec Says:


    I’ve got a condensation problem in a room and have removed the old wall paper. I’m going to clean off the black mould underneath and repair any holes with plaster. The walls arnt in a great state so I was planning on rubbing them down then hanging poly backed insulated lining paper on the external wall where the problem is and a 1700 grade lining paper around the rest of the room before painting. Couple of questions though;
    What grit sandpaper to use to get a clean smooth finish?
    How do I prime the walls before I put the lining paper up? Was thinking of using a pva based solution over the plaster first then letting it dry before lining. Is this recommended I’ve heard arguments for and against using pva.
    Once the walls are lined do I have to fill the joins with a filler prior to painting?

    And finally should I pay extra for an anti condensation paint or buy a regular paint and add a solution to it?
    Also I’m adding an air vent to help with the air circulation so hopefully I’ve covered all angles

    Date posted : July 27th, 2015 at 6:16 am
  182. Adrian Says:


    I use 80 grit as a general abrasive and 60 grit for anything that needs a bit more work, such as filler.

    You can PVa the walls, a watered down mix is OK, You can use paste to size the walls also. If the walls are that bad a non vinyl emulsion could seal the walls and you can fill and rub down any holes etc you may see.

    You shouldn’t have to fill the joints in the lining paper but if there is a small gap, a lightweight or surface filler applied to the joint and then carefully rubbed down should solve the issue.

    Ideally the wall needs to breath so adding an air vent is a good idea.

    Date posted : July 30th, 2015 at 1:21 pm
  183. Terry Leigh Says:

    I have a couple of rooms which have very well applied vinyl wallpaper. I would like to remove the top coat of vinyl to leave the backing paper. Assuming the backing paper is in good condition and firmly applied, can I:
    a) Paint over this backing paper with Vinyl matt paint?
    b) Wallpaper over this backing paper?
    Ideally I would like to do both operations. A combination of painted walls and a feature papered wall in each room.
    Would it be worth testing a small section of the room for each method?
    Any feedback much appreciated.
    Best wishes

    Date posted : July 27th, 2015 at 3:54 pm
  184. Adrian Says:


    Yes you can paint over the backing paper if it is OK.

    You could also wallpaper over backing paper if it is OK, but I always like to remove it to be 100% sure there won’t be any complications.

    You could try a small section if you are keeping the backing paper.

    Date posted : July 30th, 2015 at 1:23 pm
  185. Trudi Says:

    Great site, Adrian. We are getting ready to paper a cold external wall and I wondered about using a graphite insulating paper. Any advice, please?

    Date posted : July 28th, 2015 at 8:56 am
  186. Adrian Says:


    I have not used this before but could help you in your situation.

    Date posted : July 30th, 2015 at 1:26 pm
  187. Terry Says:

    Hi Adrian
    I agree with Trudi. You have a very good site.

    Final question. In another room, I will be painting over some old well applied light grey/ green non vinyl wallpaper. In the past I have painted over wallpaper with vinyl matt emulsion and have never experienced any problems. I read somewhere that it might be advisable to apply a primer before applying the matt emulsion to block out the colour/ prevent bleeding etc.

    Is this overkill or would you recommend?

    Again I suppose it might be a good idea to test a small section of wall. The final colour in the room to be painted will be mid-grey.

    If you do recommend a primer, is it readily available and what type would you buy?

    Hope this makes sense and thanks for any feedback you are able to give.

    Best wishes


    Date posted : July 31st, 2015 at 8:03 am
  188. Adrian Says:


    Glad you like the site.

    I only go over an existing colour to block it out if it is a strong colour such as blues, reds etc. I don’t normally if the new colour is near the old.

    If I want to block out a colour I normally use a Matt White emulsion before going over with a colour. Normally using same paint as ceiling at the same time.
    You can however buy an obliterating paint that has good opacity and covers well.

    So in answer to your question, if the new colour is similar. Save time and money and just paint new colour. If a strong colour change use white emulsion or an obliterating paint before new colour.
    Hope that helps.

    Date posted : July 31st, 2015 at 9:20 am
  189. Terry Says:

    Hi Adrian
    Your 2 responses have been TOTALLY helpful.
    Thank you so much.

    Date posted : July 31st, 2015 at 12:49 pm
  190. Adrian Says:


    Glad to help 🙂

    Date posted : August 1st, 2015 at 2:53 pm
  191. Lee Says:

    Hi Adrian,

    I have recently moved into a 1970’s built house. The front room has lining paper on the walls and has been painted over. It all appears to be in good shape however there are some parts which have come away from the wall mainly around the edges. I am just wondering if it is worth repasting the paper or is there a risk of it coming away at other points?


    Date posted : August 7th, 2015 at 2:09 pm
  192. Adrian Says:


    I would stick back the lifted paper and emulsion, if the rest is sound it will save lots of time and money. If it however does bubble slightly, leave to dry fully as sometimes it will tighten back up again.

    Date posted : August 11th, 2015 at 3:41 pm
  193. Lee Says:

    Thanks Adrian! Great advice. What would you suggest to fill the join lines betwwen the lining paper sheets?

    Date posted : August 12th, 2015 at 10:15 am
  194. Adrian Says:


    Either a fine surface filler or ordinary powder filler made a bit more watery than normal. Just try and get it in joints not all over paper, when dry use a fine sandpaper, or sponge block to sand back.

    Date posted : August 14th, 2015 at 2:16 pm
  195. Matthew Bowler Says:

    I went to college a few years ago when I was 16 to do painting and decorating, but I haven’t always worked as a Painter and Decorator and I need some advice on matters of lining paper and sand paper. It can be quite confusing when getting this materials because of the grades and I would like to use the right grades for the right jobs. Is 1200-1400 grades of lining paper alright for most jobs? I would usually use 120 grades of sanding paper for preparation work, but I should use something like 180 when it is progressing? Thanks.

    Date posted : August 21st, 2015 at 12:27 pm
  196. Adrian Says:


    I typically use 1400 grade lining paper, it is OK for most jobs. 120 grade again is OK. I sometimes use a used piece of 80 grade also, depends on the job really.

    Date posted : August 24th, 2015 at 1:30 pm
  197. Beck Says:

    Hello this site has been very useful!
    But I have another problem! I had a big crack in the wall, So I removed all the wallpaper and then I filled it, I tried to spread the filler so it blended in with the wall. I thought I would sand any excess filler when it was dry. I used flexible filler and didn’t realise I wouldn’t be able to sand it afterwards. I realised my mistake straight away when I tried to sand away the excess which does not work. I then decided to put the lining paper up anyway as it is very thick and hoped it would hide any imprefections, I used wallrock fibreliner, but now its on the wall and dry I can still see where I have filled which is not smooth. Can I get some suitable filler that I can then sand, and apply this over the lining paper? I really don’t want to remove the lining paper you see! Many thanks

    Date posted : August 25th, 2015 at 5:15 pm
  198. Adrian Says:


    Really the only solution is use powder filler, such as polyfiller, and fill it, then gently rub the filler down when dry. If you rub too hard it will damage the paper and show. The other alternative of course is to remove paper and sort the problem at source, then re paper?

    Date posted : August 30th, 2015 at 3:36 pm
  199. Matthew Bowler Says:

    Thank you very much.

    Date posted : August 28th, 2015 at 9:46 pm
  200. Mary Says:

    Hi, we’re in the process of repainting a room. There is an area by the window where the wall looks uneven and a has raised areas. The rest of the wall (quite a big area) is perfectly fine We are planning to sand the rough areas down and then put lining paper over it but wondered if we could get away with just putting lining paper on a small section of wall and some way concealing the edge of the papered area or do we need to cover the whole wall with lining paper.

    Date posted : September 15th, 2015 at 1:08 pm
  201. Adrian Says:


    I would recommend papering the whole wall, trying to conceal and edge could take as long as papering the whole wall and the finished result may not be perfect and you may end up keep looking at the paper edge thinking,”I wish I had papered the entire wall”

    Date posted : September 17th, 2015 at 3:28 pm
  202. CB Says:

    Our new house has textured wallpaper which we would like to remove, but it’s been put on unskimmed plasterboard.
    Would a thick lining paper cover the bumps of the textured wallpaper?

    Date posted : October 17th, 2015 at 8:31 pm
  203. Adrian Says:


    The trouble with papering over textured paper is it will only adhere to the ‘high’ parts of the textured paper. I would always advise to remove paper.
    If taken of carefully you may be able to line the plasterboard and emulsion or paper?

    Date posted : October 18th, 2015 at 1:32 pm
  204. rich Says:

    i understand its not ideal papering over wood chip, but the walls underneath are in poor condition, and there is a million layers of paint over it.

    what thickness of lining paper do i need to cover woodchip walls best? do i go for the 2000 grade?

    thanks in advance

    Date posted : October 23rd, 2015 at 7:36 pm
  205. Adrian Says:


    If you do paper over it, use thick paper, as you say 2000 maybe, and use ready mixed paste.

    Date posted : October 28th, 2015 at 2:47 pm
  206. Terry Says:

    Hi there. Just moved to a Victorian house that’s been covered to 2 beds . I’ve stripped old paper filled sanded and put base layer of paint on hall stairs and landing .but its still showing lumps n bumps thinking of lining paper to cover and save time in having to refill and sand again. What would you suggest. I’m not a professional at papering but do a good job. Many thanks Terry

    Date posted : November 15th, 2015 at 9:43 am
  207. Adrian Says:


    Depends on how lumpy and bumpy it is, lining paper will not give you 100% smooth walls.
    It maybe worth filling and sanding rather than paper unless just minor defects.

    Date posted : November 19th, 2015 at 2:31 pm
  208. Rony Says:

    Hi there.

    I’m about to decorate my bedroom walls which have previously had vinyl silk painted on them (direct onto plastered walls). Who ever did the painting before did it with a brush so there are A LOT of brush marks giving a poor visual finish. I don’t want to roller over this as these brush marks will just show through again.

    I would like to hang lining paper and then put matt emulsion over that but my question is, Can you hang lining paper on vinyl silk walls ? My concern is that because the paint has quite a shine on it, the paste/paper wont stick.

    Thanks in advance.

    Date posted : November 28th, 2015 at 12:55 pm
  209. Adrian Says:


    Lining paper should stick to silk emulsion ok, you can give the walls a light rub down first with a fine sandpaper just to take the shine off a little.

    Date posted : November 29th, 2015 at 2:24 pm
  210. K Says:

    Which is thicker in terms of covering wall imperfections –

    ErfurtMAV Professional 2000 grade or
    Wallrock Fibreliner 150

    And which of these 2 gives the smoothest finish for painting over?

    I have used the 2000 grade on a few rooms in the house and painted over it and I do think it is good quality lining paper. The problem I am facing is that in the final room I am trying to decorate – I discovered when I was attempting to strip it, that it had one layer of bamboo like textured paper which came off quite easily with a steamer but this was papered on top of another shell patterned textured paper and this shell paper was pasted directly onto drywall with no sealer coat. Trying to remove wallpaper from paper(the drywall paper lining) is proving almost impossible and I don’t want to damage the drywall itself in the process by either over wetting it or gouging it when trying to scrape the shell paper off.

    The paper is stuck fast so I was going to just line over it and hope that the shell texture wouldn’t come through or wouldn’t be obvious if I used a thick enough lining paper.

    Hence my question of these 2 papers which one would give the best coverage? I know ErfurtMAV do thermal liners and the R300 but my budget does not extend to the £200+ the R300 would cost just to line the walls.

    Many thanks

    Date posted : December 3rd, 2015 at 5:40 am
  211. Adrian Says:


    I have not used wallrock fiberliner myself. Best ask a suppler or the manufacturer to make sure.

    Date posted : December 5th, 2015 at 4:19 pm
  212. Phil Ellia Says:


    We have a medieval house with lime plaster walls I painted with FB Estate emulsion. I now want to wallpaper (fed up of plain walls!) several walls – all easiest description is they are “rustic”. Do you think 1400mm lining paper will be OK?

    Many thanks

    Date posted : January 4th, 2016 at 1:30 pm
  213. Adrian Says:


    It is hard to say without seeing them but after any prep work that is required 1400 should be OK, it is what I typically use.

    Date posted : January 6th, 2016 at 4:47 pm
  214. Andrew Says:

    Hi Adrian, great blog I’ve learned so much just reading your blog. I’m a novice, first time decorating and I’m doing it myself. I painstakingly stripped 4 walls, 2 plaster boarded and two bricked that had woodchip wallpaper. I took my time and with very little damage to the wall I was able to remove the top layer and the sticky backing layer. Now I’m left with Especially with the two plasterboard walls is what looks to be plaster that had previously been painted and then (what looks like) a wish wash of pva primer on top (pva must of been used for the woodchip to adhere to the paint?). Where do I go from here, should I invest more time in somehow removing the pva and paint layer or should I use lining paper? My aim from the beginning was the strip the wallpaper and then paint the walls.

    Date posted : January 16th, 2016 at 8:06 pm
  215. Adrian Says:


    Try filling the walls and sanding them down, then one coat of a white emulsion, this way you can see how the walls look painted, you will have to do the prep work anyway, if the walls are not good enough then line them before painting with the colour.

    Hope that helps.

    Date posted : January 17th, 2016 at 5:05 pm
  216. Jean Says:

    Hi there
    My house has had the attic converted to bedrooms thus giving the rooms sloped walls/ceiling. My problem is that the previous owner has put up what looks like poor quality lining paper and painted over. The seams are now coming apart and the walls are so poor it looks as if to try and remove the paper would, at the very least, leave holes in the wall. I’ve never seen this before but if you press the external wall where the lining paper is, it is soft! There is no dampness anywhere in the house and the area looks clean. Is there any covering I can use on top of the painted lining paper? Or if putting on new thick wallpaper is the only answer, can I hang the paper so that the current seams would lie within the new strip of wallpaper?

    Date posted : January 26th, 2016 at 1:12 pm
  217. Adrian Says:


    I would imagine the reason the walls seem soft is they may of been lined first with polystyrene to insulate the walls and then lined. The only problem with lining over this is it may not be stuck that well and eventually come off. If it was mine I would be inclined to remove it and start from scratch, it could save headaches later.
    You can line it horizontally (cross lined) if you wish, if you think the majority is stuck down well. If you use a border adhesive to glue down the lifted joints first.

    Date posted : January 27th, 2016 at 4:19 pm
  218. Josie Says:

    Hi Adrian

    I am about to decorate my bedroom but the ceiling is quite badly cracked from age and from an attic conversion above. We did try to stiple the ceiling a while ago but it wasn’t very successful. I did consider having the ceiling skimmed but have been advised that skim may not always stick to ceilings that have been painted and stipled in this way. Another choice was to plaster anew but we have insulation in the attic above which might start falling if we take the ceiling down. I have considered ceiling lining paper but I am not sure it will cover all the imperfections. I would appreciate your advice.

    Date posted : February 1st, 2016 at 1:59 pm
  219. Adrian Says:


    I think I would get the ceiling skimmed, the plasterer can advise if it cannot be done but I can’t see why it couldn’t. They could seal the ceiling and even put tape over the cracks. It should be the best long term solution.

    Hope that helps.

    Date posted : February 1st, 2016 at 4:02 pm
  220. Tony Says:

    Hi Adrian

    We are renovating and extending a 17thcentury large Georgian house and our attention is now on the halls & stairs and landing plus two of the reception rooms. Total wall area is approximately 210m2 and ceiling 50m2 all of which are plastered and have various layers of emulsioned embossed paper on them. In a considerable number of areas the paper is scuffed and the plaster is blown. The cost for stripping and replastering are extensive and it has been suggested we take an alternate approach and over line with a modern fibreglass lining paper. Your thoughts and comments willl be most welcomed and if lining paper is the way forward the any particular recommended brands / types.



    Date posted : February 20th, 2016 at 4:35 pm
  221. Adrian Says:


    I tend to like to start from scratch, so stripping wallpaper etc, making good if required. the trouble with going over old paper or blown plaster is you are only covering it up, not sorting the problems out. I know this comes at a cost but it is a long term solution.

    It is up to individual people to decide what they can do or how much they can or want to spend. This is my own opinion and will differ from others. It is also hard for me to recommend a solution without seeing the problems.

    Date posted : February 24th, 2016 at 5:03 pm
  222. neil smith Says:

    Considering a 1900’s craftsman bungalow style house. However, all walls in every room are very rough. It looks as though this a project for a beginner. Very rough. Looks as though they were going to give a “stucco” look and changed there minds. I don’t see wall paper an option at this point. Without removing all plaster, what can we do. Love the house, can be greatly improved. Help!

    Date posted : March 23rd, 2016 at 3:25 pm
  223. Adrian Says:


    Have you thought about a product such as smooth over or similar?

    Date posted : March 23rd, 2016 at 4:29 pm
  224. Maya Says:

    i need some advice about a ceiling… It has been papered with embossed design straight onto plasterboard about 7 years ago and paper is looking rough, seams yellowing and coming unstuck.. I am guessing stripping it will take the paper on plaster board off too?.. So is it best to repaper in heavier 1400 lining paper going in same direction as paper already attached or do something else like re board it or artex it (don’t really want do this!)… Any ideas ?? Many thanks

    Date posted : April 12th, 2016 at 10:07 pm
  225. Adrian Says:


    If you soak the embossed paper and let it soak in and then soak it again you maybe able to get the paper off and not damage the plasterboard too much. The key is to get it wet and let it soak and to keep the scraper flat to the ceiling to avoid digging it in.

    Date posted : April 19th, 2016 at 2:40 pm
  226. John Says:

    Hi, prepping too start wallpapering, bare walls as normal an there sound considering it’s a 1960s house, question I have can I use a single sheet horizontally around the wall?
    Once a dado rail round the room and were it was stained an hit the wall is a small rise, am considering putting a single sheet round the wall over this as I know it will cover the slight rise but question is will the single sheet show through once wallpapered or is it thin enough to come invisible once wallpapered?

    I had dado rail on hall stairs an landing, removed it an went round with heat gun an scraper too remove the old stain an varnish of the wall with great smooth result, problem is time restraint this time round in other room an that why I was thinking single sheet of lining might do the job this time round.

    Date posted : April 24th, 2016 at 10:01 am
  227. Adrian Says:


    I would imagine the lining paper would show through the wallpaper. Could try filling and feathering the edge?

    Date posted : April 24th, 2016 at 4:20 pm
  228. Leona Says:

    I would like to apply lining paper on my walls as the previous owners have use chip wood paper an wallpaper the has raised flower prints on it…what thickness do I need to use so it don’t show through as I don’t like the print that’s on there…plz help.

    Date posted : June 14th, 2016 at 8:03 am
  229. Adrian Says:


    My advise would be to remove the old paper and then line.

    Date posted : June 14th, 2016 at 1:31 pm
  230. Kelly Says:

    Hi, we have just stripped the kitchen that had 2 layers of tile on a roll on it and found wood panelling underneath. Coming accross different opinions of whether we should just size the wooden walls and hang the new contour wallpaper on it or line it first? What grade liner if lining? Just don’t want to hang the new wall paper and it to start coming off or grooves to show because of the wood panelling! Thanks

    Date posted : September 1st, 2016 at 3:01 pm
  231. Adrian Says:


    Lining maybe the safer option, a medium grade such as 1400 should be OK.

    Date posted : September 3rd, 2016 at 1:36 pm
  232. Scermir Says:

    Hi Adrian,
    Our apartment is tiled with semi gloss textured tiles in 2000’s and I am planning to hang lining paper over the tiles and paint on it. Is it a good idea to hang a lining paper over the tiles or is there any suggestion from you? Will the lining paper well stuck over the tiles? And which grade lining paper should I use for this matter?
    Thank you.

    Date posted : September 9th, 2016 at 3:01 pm
  233. Adrian Says:


    Not sure what you mean by textured tiles, if it is too textured the lining paper will not hide it.

    Date posted : September 10th, 2016 at 4:16 pm
  234. Kamie Says:

    We live in an Edwardian property and after stripping all the old paper off it has revealed several layers of old paint old paste and old filler also a few patches of old dblack mould/damp
    Would it be a good idea to PVA the walls instead of sizing or do both to help with adhesion of lining paper
    What would be best thing to do to prepare the old tired walls

    Date posted : September 30th, 2016 at 5:53 pm
  235. Adrian Says:


    I would be inclined to prepare the walls, fill,and treat the damp problems, then use a non vinyl emulsion and coat the walls, this will reveal any damp /water stains, any areas that need filling more. Then I would line the walls.

    Date posted : October 1st, 2016 at 2:50 pm
  236. Heather Binns Says:

    We’ve had a new house built and the ‘professional’ decorators have made an absolute mess of the taping – walls and ceiling look dreadful in sunlight….it’s a 11m x 7m full height room.
    Contractor is proposing they fix this by using lining paper. I know this is common for older buildings but wondered if there are any drawbacks with a new build? We want white painted walls, so interested to know if paper will be seamless and if any long term implications we need to consider?
    We’re thinking plastering would be better, but obviously more expensive for contractor and messy for us – I imagine we will have to empty the room completely!
    I would really appreciate some unbiased advice

    Date posted : April 10th, 2017 at 5:24 pm
  237. Adrian Says:


    If this is a new build isn’t it the building contractors responsibility or covered under NHBC? Paper should be seamless, but plastering would be better if joints can not be re-done?

    Date posted : April 13th, 2017 at 1:58 pm
  238. Deepak Says:

    Hi Adrian – Total newbie in painting. There was a small torn patch in lining paper on a wall and whilst starting to prep, for some stupid reason I decided to tear it bigger so now its a irregular shape torn lining paper about 9 x 4 inches. Its not coming off anywhere else to be honest and is well stuck on the wall. Should I just fill fine surface filler and sand? Or any other tricks you suggest please? Thanks !

    Date posted : May 5th, 2017 at 12:22 pm
  239. Adrian Says:


    If you haven’t still got the torn piece of lining paper to stick back, a fine surface filler should be OK. Be careful not to apply it too thick as rubbing it down could cause more damage to the surrounding area. Best to fill it twice if needed. Also, use a fine sandpaper so not to rough up the surrounding paper.

    Date posted : May 5th, 2017 at 1:12 pm
  240. Gina Says:

    I want to make an ugly painted breeze block wall smooth in my downstair’s foyer. Would lining paper be a good choice for this project? It is not in a basement and has no moisture issues. Any info on what grade to use would be appreciate if possible.

    Date posted : July 2nd, 2017 at 12:38 am
  241. Adrian Says:


    You don’t say if it a plastered wall or not. Paper wouldn’t sick to the blocks too well without having it plastered first. If it is plastered it would be fine to line.

    Date posted : July 5th, 2017 at 3:35 pm
  242. Sarah Says:

    What a wonderful, informative site!

    I have a question about lining paper / wallpapering and some advise would very much be appreciated. I have an old cottage with very uneven walls – the unevenness is quite extreme on one wall in one bedroom, with depressions of perhaps 1-2cm over maybe a metre wide patch. Would (patterned) wallpaper over lining paper be suitable here or would it look terrible? The other walls are not so bad so it may be that this wall could be painted instead. What would you advise?

    Date posted : July 3rd, 2017 at 4:19 pm
  243. Adrian Says:


    Wallpaper over lining paper would be OK. Could the depression be filled? It would depend on the type of pattern as to how much the imperfections show, a busy pattern should disguise it more than a plain one.

    Date posted : July 5th, 2017 at 3:50 pm
  244. Clive Cernuschi Says:

    I wallpapered a room some years ago with plastered walls that had been painted, although when I stripped off the original paper some of the paint came off leaving patches of bare plaster. Although I used a lining paper prior to the wallpaper the patches of bare plaster showed through. I am decorating again and would like to know the best way of preventing the same thing happening again.

    Date posted : July 24th, 2017 at 8:57 am
  245. Adrian Says:


    You could try a thicker lining paper, I typically use 1400 gauge. Or a fibreliner which is thicker still, but this is more expensive. The other alternative is filling before lining but this is time consuming.

    Date posted : July 27th, 2017 at 4:07 pm
  246. Alan Says:

    My daughter recently purchased a 150 year old ground floor flat which had been unoccupied for 4 years.
    We have had walls professionall skimmed to a high standard. I have then started lining the walls after applying a think coat of emulsion and then pasting the walls ie sizing. It is now some 10 days and there are still quite a number of bubbles showing which is annoying because the walls were perfect. Do you think the bubbles will disappear in time? Should I refrain from lining the other rooms or do you have hints that would help prevent this when lining the other rooms?

    Date posted : August 25th, 2017 at 12:52 am
  247. Adrian Says:


    Did you use a non Vinyl emulsion? Did you seal the walls with anything. I’m wondering it the bubbles are the emulsion or the paper? The bubbles may go if it is the emulsion and it dries out, if however it is air bubbles under paper these wont go, try using a pin to prick the bubble and see if that helps.

    You say the walls have been skimmed to a high standard, so why line the walls? Can you not just paint or wallpaper them?

    Date posted : August 26th, 2017 at 1:54 pm
  248. Sue Says:

    We have a bedroom where the emulsion has bubbled off the wall and flaked away in places. We assume that this was due to insufficient preparation after removing wallpaper. We want to emulsion the walls again so is lining paper the way to go or is there an easier way?

    Date posted : October 13th, 2017 at 11:32 pm
  249. Adrian Says:


    You can fill, sand and fill and sand until smooth, or fill and sand the deepest bit and then line with 1400 gauge or above lining paper.

    Date posted : October 14th, 2017 at 3:54 pm
  250. Judy Says:

    I have a freezing cold drafty passage and I would like to know what is the difference between 1400 grade lining paper or a higher grade like 2400 grade to using graphic lined paper?

    Are there any variation in graphic lined paper?

    What types of paste and consistency of paste is advisable to use?

    Date posted : November 29th, 2017 at 4:45 pm
  251. Adrian Says:


    Have you looked at Thermal Liner? It is around 3mm thick. This uses a ready mixed paste.

    Date posted : November 30th, 2017 at 1:45 pm
  252. Christine massey Says:

    I am decorating my living room with just lining paper on 3 walls and then just going to emulsion it what grade lining paper will be best to use

    Date posted : January 7th, 2018 at 12:22 pm
  253. Adrian Says:


    Depending on the state of the walls, but I typically use 1400 gauge/grade.

    Date posted : January 7th, 2018 at 1:52 pm
  254. David Says:

    I have standard wall paneling that I would would like to cover as opposed to remove. I would like to have a finished wall of wallpaper so I intend to first cover the paneling with a lining paper. What prep do I need to do to the paneling and what thickness of lining paper should I use to insure that the paneling groves will not show through to the finished wall?

    Date posted : July 19th, 2019 at 7:23 pm
  255. admin Says:


    I have never done this myself, but possibly fill the groves and use a think lining paper such as 1400 or above or maybe fibreliner.

    Date posted : July 20th, 2019 at 2:13 pm

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